there's that south swell 0007

saturday morning surfed the rising tide in the morning there was still a bit of west swell at about 1.something at around 10 seconds and the south swell was supposed to be mixed in but it was not really present. the sea was confused, swells crossing each other, canceling each other out. it was not very pretty but occasionally got to ride some nice waves.

Sunday, the south swell was in full effect. 2 feet about 20 seconds from about 205 degrees would produce big over head closeouts on the south end of montara. I went to about the condos to where the shoulders were a little more forgiving by i wasnt having too much success. the shoulders were steep as well. lots of boards flying everywhere.


2-3 fair 0006

"no fucking way" i said to myself as i drove through the saddle in the hills. the cemetery to my right and clear skys as far as i could see. sure it was a little hazy, but still really nice. I arrived at the jetty still half asleep and wishing i had filled up my thermos with prime kona but it was too late. the water was calm, the only disturbance bieng made by birds diving head first for their morning meal. I got out of the car and watched. Knowing linda mar would be even worse i figured i'd wait a bit here to see if a set would come through and then i can make a decision. Another guy i see out every now and then was also parked on the side of the road, but he took off pretty quick, I didnt blame him.After a few minutes a nice set rolled in. tiny 2 footers, and that was enough to convince me to jump in. Having been out of the water since Sunday I was itching to get wet or at least float around and hope that something ridable might come.

Aside from the sea lion hangin out in the water i was all alone. I stared out into the bay, and waited for something and luckily i didnt have to wait that long. The waves came, small, i laughed as i paddled for them, knowing that on most days i wouldnt dream of paddling for something this tiny. Up on my feet, i enjoyed a ride that lasted all of 4 seconds, till my fins dragged on the sand inches below me. I walked back in (since the tide was so low there was no need to paddle). The water was incredibly glassy and clear, no wind what so ever and as i floated i could see the sand below. The sea lion came back for a visit and then split, obviously not impressed with my surfing skills. A few more tiny breakers and it was time to head back home.

bike, train, bike, work ...etc.


wait 0005

today i didnt go to the beach. Its flat, no surf, and for some reason i feel guilty for not going. for not getting wet, for not checking just to make sure. lately my surfing is been improving. and i mean really improving! dropping in late, going down the line with a wall of green water beside me, carving, the whole nine. its been great. a total feel of accomplishment and happiness all at once. I've taken serious beatings for it lately as well. been held down a couple times by big waves and poor judgement.on my birthday i caught a wave. the last one. not very clean but i made it work. carving, going up and down the face of the wave, smoooooth riding. the glide i guess. at that point i was done for the day. i've been getting smiles by strangers at the end of my rides, compliments even. amazing. i was never a great skateboarder but with surfing i've connected somehow. taken advantage of riding pure energy. just before it crashes and takes another form.

now i wait, no surf, no energy to be ridden. waiting for the south swell to bring swells that have traveled thousands of miles. swells produced by a big ass storm deep in the south pacific. wait.