canoes, jockoe's and i'll never surf sandy beach 0008

from that south that i wrote about a while back i ended up ditching work later in the week to surf it at the jetty. what a site. perfect head high peelers that broke hard and steep. i could barely surf them but i was still having a killer time. the south was coming at about 2 feet 15 seconds and it really hit the jetty hard. it was beautiful. just beautiful.

surfed lm countless times and went out with mark for a super sweet session as well. did the morning dawn patrol and hit the jetty by 630 and was there for about 3 hours. the waves on the north end were big and occasionally closing out. mark took a few good ones that spooked him a bit so we moved down south where it was pretty lonely. just us two and some small 2 footers. but these two footers had us stoked for a long time. the were breaking clean and you really got some excellent rides out of them. there were also 2 shark sightings out at LM that week. not enough to scare me off but enough to make me look out at the ocean a bit more carefully.

hawaii was also in the cards this month. i surfed canoes and queens for 5 days straight. i had an unbelievably good time. i had the best luck with a 7'8" fun board with a rounded pin tail. i was going down the line, carving hard, and pumping great. i was sad to leave hawaii. but amazed at the progress i had made since the first time i started surfing.