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Juan more

0030: titties are fun

endless documentation leads to a shitload of nothing. Sunny day yesterday afternoon and junky conditions. local windswell coming in at about 6 ft@8sec from who gives a shit what direction. I'll tell you, in conditions like that, its not worth getting down to the nitty gritty details. It was small, lumpy but still fun. i dont mind the small waves, i just dont like how its one after another after a fucking nother. it makes the rip a hell hole and getting out super shitty. but again, it was still fun. the prince is starting to do me right. i dinged it. repaired it and slapped a sticker over the ding. still works fine. sometimes i stress that it might've taken on water but it still rides and feels the same. my next shorty will be very similiar, maybe a a couple inches longer. but i'm diggin this one. The rest of the week is supposed to be pretty shitty, really small and not much love coming our way. socal conditions i guess.

So anyways, i'm a carving and slashing machine! Yeaaaahhhh! ...whatever

can you tell how shitty it was from the pics??? hehehe, camera phones are funky, you can say its an artsy impressionist pic or a pic from a piece of shit camera phone.

well, sun's come out. waves are small. time to climb.

0028: humble mumble

early morning sessions kill me evertime. i'd rather sleep in all honesty but i also enjoy the company of others when surfing new spots so sometimes i need to bite the bullet and wake up. I'd hate to paddle out alone, get eaten then never be heard from again. We headed for parts south. which i was happy to go since i really dig the beaches down there. all the spots were small and not much was hitting till we got to by pescadero. what looked like nice mushy gentle waves with a violent beach break. timing is everything for these bitches. wait for the flat spell then run in and start paddling. I made out ok, no worries there and then i just waited. It was a nice morning but i was dog tired and sleepy. The waves were nice actually, a bit wierd tho as they seemed to be walling up quickly and thats not what it looked like from the beach. I dunno, maybe i was just pussin out but it was spooky. I caught quite a few bitchen rides tho. I was amazed by how racy and fast the rides were. it was great, super carvable and fast. I was a friends 7'0 and i was able to whip that thing in any direction. super sweet.

Kenzai 特别のLife wicked shit

Kenzai 特别のLife

0027: Why yes that was me busting that wicked cutback

My friends brother lives in hawaii and surfs as well. Something i was told he said makes a lot of sense. "how do you expect to get good surfing these crappy waves" and the guy is totally right. You wont get really good surfing linda mar and the jump from places like that to Montara is pretty drastic. Yesterday and actually this last weekend was quite a breakthrough for me. This last weekend i was at cowell's. I kind of dont like the place but its a good time tho every now and then and i like surfing there with my wife. But i was really surfing the place well, carving on the hog and really riding the wave. yesterday was LM in the late afternoon. The waves were small and pretty shitty except for a couple of rides. I was out on the sweet prince and i got one wave in particular where i got set up relatively quickly and the wave just lined up pretty nicely in front of me. Seeing this i did a small frontside carve to get some speed and go back down the small face, then i went up for a frontside cutback. Shit, it probably looked like a gimp surfing a 2x4 but for me, hell, it was sweet.

anyways, the swell was small about 3 feet at 13 sec. I dont know where it was coming from and i kind of dont care. The jetty should;ve been nice and i'd like to hit it soon. Also looking forward to summer surfing montara and san gregorio.

The Hog jr. needs to be repaired again, which kind of sucks. maybe today i'll work on it a bit more but i need some damn sawhorses. AAAANNNDD, my backyard doesnt get any light. So the temp is always pretty low, which means i need a damn thermometer back there so i know when its safe to work on him.