wait 0005

today i didnt go to the beach. Its flat, no surf, and for some reason i feel guilty for not going. for not getting wet, for not checking just to make sure. lately my surfing is been improving. and i mean really improving! dropping in late, going down the line with a wall of green water beside me, carving, the whole nine. its been great. a total feel of accomplishment and happiness all at once. I've taken serious beatings for it lately as well. been held down a couple times by big waves and poor judgement.on my birthday i caught a wave. the last one. not very clean but i made it work. carving, going up and down the face of the wave, smoooooth riding. the glide i guess. at that point i was done for the day. i've been getting smiles by strangers at the end of my rides, compliments even. amazing. i was never a great skateboarder but with surfing i've connected somehow. taken advantage of riding pure energy. just before it crashes and takes another form.

now i wait, no surf, no energy to be ridden. waiting for the south swell to bring swells that have traveled thousands of miles. swells produced by a big ass storm deep in the south pacific. wait.