labor day for the workers 0010

9/5/2004
great day for surfing, shitty day for surf

it was hot today, really hot, damn hot, too hot. I decided to head out to linda mar first hoping that the conditions might have gotten a little better. but it was crummy. crummy is the best way to describe the surf. it was big, would close out and the white water would take over all the way to the shore. then headed south to GWC and Montara, and there was nobody out. loads of people on the beach and hardly any surfers in the water. continued on and got in at the jetty. there were too many people in the too shitty take off zones. but it was incredibly fun. I caught loads of closed out knee high waves that i was even able to get a carve or two on. It was a total beginners spot today. everyone waiting for the larger sets that would jack up to about waist high and toss the whole lot over. classic. hilarious. I cought a couple of these and got some decent rides. This is soooooo much different than the perfect waves i was catching two weeks ago in hawaii.

9/6/2004
great day for surfing, pretty damn good day for surf

I didnt surf today but damn! i saw some great surfing!! I was so jealous. I headed down the coast for a little wine drinking and stopped at a couple spots to check out the surf. San gregorio looked really good today, gentle lefts and rights that still had some juice. I have to remember to look for 3-5 feet swells at around 9 or 10 seconds from about 320 degrees. this seems to produce good waves all along south san mateo county. Pomponio had the most amazing barrels. one out of ever 10 barrells was beautiful, picture perfect, at the end of the ride, the barrell would totally spit, it was like watching a video. Waddel creek was ruling as well. short boarders and longboarders all over catching some great rides, the wave breaking really cleanly. too bad, no board.