I was listening here to some kpfa radio show about the american media intentionally not covering anti-us demonstrations. We all just want to know that shit is peachy. perfect.
WEEEELLLLLLL, yesterday the swell was small, insignificant fun when not closing out violently. let me tell you, trying to ride a longboard on knee high closeouts is not fun. It was enough for me to go running back to sweet prince for those short rides, like surfing a potato chip. I think i caught 2 decent rides one on the shorty prince which did make me work. pumping the board and all that fun. plus popping up is getting better. still a bit gimpy but definately making some solid improvement. The other good ride was on the flower. nice semi long one but these waves after they closed out got crazy mushy. occasionaly a hip or waist high set would come in. but those were horrible. they'd jack up and throw over. suck ass waves. buuuuuuuuuut, it was still fun. i missed the sponsler class, but no big deal there tho. I'd rather go surfing than be in a class room. LM
5ft@11sec:295deg+2ft
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