saturday morning surfed the rising tide in the morning there was still a bit of west swell at about 1.something at around 10 seconds and the south swell was supposed to be mixed in but it was not really present. the sea was confused, swells crossing each other, canceling each other out. it was not very pretty but occasionally got to ride some nice waves.
Sunday, the south swell was in full effect. 2 feet about 20 seconds from about 205 degrees would produce big over head closeouts on the south end of montara. I went to about the condos to where the shoulders were a little more forgiving by i wasnt having too much success. the shoulders were steep as well. lots of boards flying everywhere.
2004/07/19
2004/07/15
2-3 fair 0006
"no fucking way" i said to myself as i drove through the saddle in the hills. the cemetery to my right and clear skys as far as i could see. sure it was a little hazy, but still really nice. I arrived at the jetty still half asleep and wishing i had filled up my thermos with prime kona but it was too late. the water was calm, the only disturbance bieng made by birds diving head first for their morning meal. I got out of the car and watched. Knowing linda mar would be even worse i figured i'd wait a bit here to see if a set would come through and then i can make a decision. Another guy i see out every now and then was also parked on the side of the road, but he took off pretty quick, I didnt blame him.After a few minutes a nice set rolled in. tiny 2 footers, and that was enough to convince me to jump in. Having been out of the water since Sunday I was itching to get wet or at least float around and hope that something ridable might come.
Aside from the sea lion hangin out in the water i was all alone. I stared out into the bay, and waited for something and luckily i didnt have to wait that long. The waves came, small, i laughed as i paddled for them, knowing that on most days i wouldnt dream of paddling for something this tiny. Up on my feet, i enjoyed a ride that lasted all of 4 seconds, till my fins dragged on the sand inches below me. I walked back in (since the tide was so low there was no need to paddle). The water was incredibly glassy and clear, no wind what so ever and as i floated i could see the sand below. The sea lion came back for a visit and then split, obviously not impressed with my surfing skills. A few more tiny breakers and it was time to head back home.
bike, train, bike, work ...etc.
Aside from the sea lion hangin out in the water i was all alone. I stared out into the bay, and waited for something and luckily i didnt have to wait that long. The waves came, small, i laughed as i paddled for them, knowing that on most days i wouldnt dream of paddling for something this tiny. Up on my feet, i enjoyed a ride that lasted all of 4 seconds, till my fins dragged on the sand inches below me. I walked back in (since the tide was so low there was no need to paddle). The water was incredibly glassy and clear, no wind what so ever and as i floated i could see the sand below. The sea lion came back for a visit and then split, obviously not impressed with my surfing skills. A few more tiny breakers and it was time to head back home.
bike, train, bike, work ...etc.
2004/07/14
wait 0005
today i didnt go to the beach. Its flat, no surf, and for some reason i feel guilty for not going. for not getting wet, for not checking just to make sure. lately my surfing is been improving. and i mean really improving! dropping in late, going down the line with a wall of green water beside me, carving, the whole nine. its been great. a total feel of accomplishment and happiness all at once. I've taken serious beatings for it lately as well. been held down a couple times by big waves and poor judgement.on my birthday i caught a wave. the last one. not very clean but i made it work. carving, going up and down the face of the wave, smoooooth riding. the glide i guess. at that point i was done for the day. i've been getting smiles by strangers at the end of my rides, compliments even. amazing. i was never a great skateboarder but with surfing i've connected somehow. taken advantage of riding pure energy. just before it crashes and takes another form.
now i wait, no surf, no energy to be ridden. waiting for the south swell to bring swells that have traveled thousands of miles. swells produced by a big ass storm deep in the south pacific. wait.
now i wait, no surf, no energy to be ridden. waiting for the south swell to bring swells that have traveled thousands of miles. swells produced by a big ass storm deep in the south pacific. wait.
2004/06/02
looking for a bigger cleaner bunny 0004
three, four, the last five times of surfing have been at the Half Moon Bay Jetty. Small consistent three foot waves rolling in from the south. You see the waves coming in so slow, but when they break, these tiny swells immediately jack up and toss over throwing you head over heels into a few feet of water. I watched a few people get some nasty pearls in their 9 foot longboards. Their boards would shoot straight up into the air and sometimes spin around like helicopter blades.
My first session there was great. I met Rick in front of his place, put on my wetsuit and we walked over. It was around 6.30 pm and the wind was finally starting to die down. We were the only people out in the water and we caught just about every surfable wave that rolled in. Small rights, sometimes carvable, most times not, but fun just to cruise them in.
About a week ago, I went out to the jetty again, small consistent two to three foot swells, that would occasionally break cleanly. Then the sets would roll in. Usually around three waves from out of no where, breaking about five feet high max about ten yards past the line up. We'd all paddle like mad hoping to catch one off these close outs and occasionally one of would make it. I got lucky a couple of times and caught some of the mush which made for a decent ride. But still, close out waves ruled.
The jetty is always fun in the summer, maybe its time for new waves.
My first session there was great. I met Rick in front of his place, put on my wetsuit and we walked over. It was around 6.30 pm and the wind was finally starting to die down. We were the only people out in the water and we caught just about every surfable wave that rolled in. Small rights, sometimes carvable, most times not, but fun just to cruise them in.
About a week ago, I went out to the jetty again, small consistent two to three foot swells, that would occasionally break cleanly. Then the sets would roll in. Usually around three waves from out of no where, breaking about five feet high max about ten yards past the line up. We'd all paddle like mad hoping to catch one off these close outs and occasionally one of would make it. I got lucky a couple of times and caught some of the mush which made for a decent ride. But still, close out waves ruled.
The jetty is always fun in the summer, maybe its time for new waves.
2004/05/20
gary_coady_notes & jottings 0003
small bit from a letter to bobby,
I take a train every morning to get to work, then i usually ride my bike the rest of the way to the office. today there was a bus that goes right to the office so i decided to forget about riding the bike the whole way and just take the bus. I got on and sitting accross from me was this incredibly ugly man, bobby, he was horribly disguisting. this man should be tossed into a dungeon or better yet executed and wiped from the face of the planet. i considered doing the task myself but by the time the thoght occured i was at the office and needed to get off the bus. He looked like andre the giant, but shorter. he sat slouched on the bus bench wearing blue jeans with the zipper all the way down and wide open like a prostitutes pussy. along with what has to be the crustiest sweatshirt in all cali. his hair was even like Andre the giants, bushy like some australian aboriginal, this man was feral i tell you, he would've fought me dirty, biting and kicking, using nails even! a lady hopped on the bus as well, took one look at this mangy beast and sat next to me. a poor move i think, because he was so large he was always in her line of site. she probably threw up once she got off the bus. the guy even had a protruding lower lip. huge, like those africans with the lip disk, only no goddamn disk! i was not prepared for what i saw next, see, i wasnt looking directly at him, i was staring off into space when i heard this horrible noise. I turned to find the man digging with his index finger through his nose. he was really going for it, kinda the way school children do. his finger then went from his nose to his open mouth landing on his fucking tongue. then from his fucking tongue he ran his hand thru his goddamn hair. truely one of gods creatures.
by the way, you may want to check out rudy huxtable, my how she's changed, what would theo, cliff and claire say:
http://home.deds.nl/~dz/keshia/KeshiaKnightPulliam7.jpg
I take a train every morning to get to work, then i usually ride my bike the rest of the way to the office. today there was a bus that goes right to the office so i decided to forget about riding the bike the whole way and just take the bus. I got on and sitting accross from me was this incredibly ugly man, bobby, he was horribly disguisting. this man should be tossed into a dungeon or better yet executed and wiped from the face of the planet. i considered doing the task myself but by the time the thoght occured i was at the office and needed to get off the bus. He looked like andre the giant, but shorter. he sat slouched on the bus bench wearing blue jeans with the zipper all the way down and wide open like a prostitutes pussy. along with what has to be the crustiest sweatshirt in all cali. his hair was even like Andre the giants, bushy like some australian aboriginal, this man was feral i tell you, he would've fought me dirty, biting and kicking, using nails even! a lady hopped on the bus as well, took one look at this mangy beast and sat next to me. a poor move i think, because he was so large he was always in her line of site. she probably threw up once she got off the bus. the guy even had a protruding lower lip. huge, like those africans with the lip disk, only no goddamn disk! i was not prepared for what i saw next, see, i wasnt looking directly at him, i was staring off into space when i heard this horrible noise. I turned to find the man digging with his index finger through his nose. he was really going for it, kinda the way school children do. his finger then went from his nose to his open mouth landing on his fucking tongue. then from his fucking tongue he ran his hand thru his goddamn hair. truely one of gods creatures.
by the way, you may want to check out rudy huxtable, my how she's changed, what would theo, cliff and claire say:
http://home.deds.nl/~dz/keshia/KeshiaKnightPulliam7.jpg
2004/05/19
Guy De-Bored 0002
The amalfi webcam is amazing. http://www.sunnyfortuna.com/fortunacam/showcams/italy/amalfi.htm when i compare the image on my computer screen to my own surroundings, you cant help think that it would be in your best interest to walk outside and not come back. http://www.astro.ucla.edu/~obs/towercam.htm even the images from mount wilson makes you realize that as trapped as you are there are still escapes from the 3 cubicle walls. bieng a bicycle hellman i am confronted with these challenges everyday. lately the days have been sunny and cool. uncommon but when they occur like three days in a row, you forget about the endless weeks of cold and rain that were not so long ago. getting off the train if i was to ride my bike in the other direction i would hit hills and vineyards. i could have my wife meet me at some janky winery and spend the day getting drunk and lazying around. the true revolution of everyday life.
2004/05/18
super clean 0001
morning becomes nerdclectic
6am and out the door, headed west, like anyone else with half a brain. radio on low, i hear a commercial for the company i work for. It doesnt make me feel any better and luckily it doesnt make me feel any worse. the journey continues on. Its a beautiful morning, sun rising slowly and high fog barely touching the tops of the hills. 30 minutes later i reach the water. the tide is low, really damn low and theres not enough swell to make it worth getting in the water. i stood for a bit hoping something might show up but it never does. i got back in the car and started driving. and started regretting, i left my beautiful wife at home in bed so i can suffer in the cold. it may be an incredible morning but it's still cold. Montara looked doable, driving by i imagined myself in the water, staring out into the ocean and the oncoming swells, then turning around to see those sketchy cliffs... definately not. continued on past gray whale cove onto linda mar. flat, flat, flat. ended up at rockaway and it was not happening either. actually, as i pulled up into the parking lot a long boarder was driving out.
total bust, i headed back home, and got back into bed.
6am and out the door, headed west, like anyone else with half a brain. radio on low, i hear a commercial for the company i work for. It doesnt make me feel any better and luckily it doesnt make me feel any worse. the journey continues on. Its a beautiful morning, sun rising slowly and high fog barely touching the tops of the hills. 30 minutes later i reach the water. the tide is low, really damn low and theres not enough swell to make it worth getting in the water. i stood for a bit hoping something might show up but it never does. i got back in the car and started driving. and started regretting, i left my beautiful wife at home in bed so i can suffer in the cold. it may be an incredible morning but it's still cold. Montara looked doable, driving by i imagined myself in the water, staring out into the ocean and the oncoming swells, then turning around to see those sketchy cliffs... definately not. continued on past gray whale cove onto linda mar. flat, flat, flat. ended up at rockaway and it was not happening either. actually, as i pulled up into the parking lot a long boarder was driving out.
total bust, i headed back home, and got back into bed.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)