My friends brother lives in hawaii and surfs as well. Something i was told he said makes a lot of sense. "how do you expect to get good surfing these crappy waves" and the guy is totally right. You wont get really good surfing linda mar and the jump from places like that to Montara is pretty drastic. Yesterday and actually this last weekend was quite a breakthrough for me. This last weekend i was at cowell's. I kind of dont like the place but its a good time tho every now and then and i like surfing there with my wife. But i was really surfing the place well, carving on the hog and really riding the wave. yesterday was LM in the late afternoon. The waves were small and pretty shitty except for a couple of rides. I was out on the sweet prince and i got one wave in particular where i got set up relatively quickly and the wave just lined up pretty nicely in front of me. Seeing this i did a small frontside carve to get some speed and go back down the small face, then i went up for a frontside cutback. Shit, it probably looked like a gimp surfing a 2x4 but for me, hell, it was sweet.
anyways, the swell was small about 3 feet at 13 sec. I dont know where it was coming from and i kind of dont care. The jetty should;ve been nice and i'd like to hit it soon. Also looking forward to summer surfing montara and san gregorio.
The Hog jr. needs to be repaired again, which kind of sucks. maybe today i'll work on it a bit more but i need some damn sawhorses. AAAANNNDD, my backyard doesnt get any light. So the temp is always pretty low, which means i need a damn thermometer back there so i know when its safe to work on him.
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