0028: humble mumble

early morning sessions kill me evertime. i'd rather sleep in all honesty but i also enjoy the company of others when surfing new spots so sometimes i need to bite the bullet and wake up. I'd hate to paddle out alone, get eaten then never be heard from again. We headed for parts south. which i was happy to go since i really dig the beaches down there. all the spots were small and not much was hitting till we got to by pescadero. what looked like nice mushy gentle waves with a violent beach break. timing is everything for these bitches. wait for the flat spell then run in and start paddling. I made out ok, no worries there and then i just waited. It was a nice morning but i was dog tired and sleepy. The waves were nice actually, a bit wierd tho as they seemed to be walling up quickly and thats not what it looked like from the beach. I dunno, maybe i was just pussin out but it was spooky. I caught quite a few bitchen rides tho. I was amazed by how racy and fast the rides were. it was great, super carvable and fast. I was a friends 7'0 and i was able to whip that thing in any direction. super sweet.