today was incredible, a full day i'd say. the alarm woke me up around 6 and a few snoozes later i was up and carrying 2 boards out to the car. by the time i got to the creek the sun was bright and all the north sc county spots were looking pretty good. I was thinking about the dudes walking out into nothing to psuedo secret spots. One of these days i'll pull over and take a walk down a random ravine like these dudes and find myself a gem.
the wind was blowing when i got out of the car and I was getting a bit discouraged. the creek is notorious for fucked wind blowing out the waves but there was one other guy out catching some nice ones. A couple people were also suiting up so i figured it couldnt be too bad. paddling out was pretty easy through the channel and it was really chill out in the line up. the view from the water is amazing, looking towards the beach is big basin state park, to the north is ano nuevo island. this place is supposedly shark fucking central but you'd never know it. the surfers seem to all cluster around each other here. I dont know if its cuz of the peaks or if its out of fear. I think a person became a shark snack out here once or twice. The waves were a little blown at first. the wind was offshore and the waves were small so so it was a bitch to catch anything, but pretty quickly it died down and things got good. mostly chest to shoulder high stuff.the wave is great cuz it peels and changes. it has some juice so you can really enjoy the ride and rip. I was out for 2 hours and i caught countless waves. the last wave i caught was the kind of wave that makes you remember why you started surfing. I caught it just right and i popped up with out the use of the gimp. altho the popup was gimpish the whole bitch is finally coming together. i caught the thing right in the pocket and i was able to turn and get going pretty quickly, i got some decent slow carves and even tried to a cutback. but my dumb ass was riding the pig that day and pig has other ideas when it comes to cutbacks or even just a simple carve. but the ride was long, the pig put a smile on my face and i had had enough.
the afternoon was the anarchist bookfair. I really enjoyed this, more than i thought i would. It was good to see so many like minded fuckers but discouraging at the same time. there seems to be this unwritten rule that bieng an anarchist somehow also means you dont shower and you smell like a high school wrestlers jock strap. bieng an anarchist should be a point of pride. bieng proud that you can think for yourself and are a socially responsible. but a lot of these animals are in it like a social clique. They go to marches i imagine but do nothing. They claim that they want liberation and break down the system but they dont even know what the system is. they dont work and dont contribute to society or their community in any way. the isolate and marginaize themselves and they do this in the name of "anarchism" I'd like to see older people there, people my age, who work and who know what bieng a corporate slave is. Anarchist movements have only really worked when its come from the working class. not uneducated high school misfits. i was looking forward to seeing the apoc table but i didnt see shit. maybe we're just happy with system. We heard bary patemen speak and the guy was fantastic,i dont know if he reached many people but he spoke on getting normal worker bee folk to not so much get involved but rather know what anarchism really is, we're not gonna burn down their houses (well, maybe just the monsanto headquarters, or united defense). but it would be nice if there were more everyday people who sympathized with the cause. Shit all we're asking is that you realize that we're getting a raw deal. in any case his speach was great, all he asks is that we talk to people. After he spoke i thought a bit about the idea of anarchism in everyday life. trying to stay away from eating gmo foods, patronizing companies that are bit more socially responsible, minimizing dependence on oil, and things like corporate media, simple shit like watching an independent movie rather something retarted like "miss fucking congeniality". Worker owned corps are great too. corps like mondragon and other worker owned business. I know i'd give more of a shit about my job if i had a piece of it. not like a stock option that i still have to buy but rather a legitimate piece of the pie allocated to me. anyways, it was fun, a good experience.
After the book fair Seana and i went to Flax and delisio, which was incredible. the food was delicious and the chocolate cake outstanding. Its a chill place. i enjoy it alot, its nice to relax have a decent meal with Seana and shoot the breeze. Its the kind of place that makes you want to open i'll buy a vineyard and make wine. It can even be worker owned run, especially since Seana and I will be the workers.
side note, try sculpting soapstone.
waddell 4.25@15sec+2-3ft&280deg
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