on call on the ball 0016

The weekend surf, was definately good, bad and ugly. The jetty saturday morning was nutty. there was so much was so much water moving around it was tough to stay in position. I paddled out just after Manabu on the 6'1" and was bieng tossed around in all directions. The swell was fairly large and had mavericks breaking. The jetty is usually fun since the swell is big enough to wrap around the monstrous point and break at the jetty. this was happening but you can tell the effects of the dropping tide. there were plenty of close outs and i was left catching the inside stuff. There were some really good surfers out catching some great racy peelers. however these guys were obviously experienced. The jetty, even in clean conditions, jacks up in nanoseconds. I only caught 2 waves in the hour i was out w/the 6'1" then Manabu offered to switch. He has a 7'5" j.c. equalizer. its an awesome board. wide, thick, plenty of rocker, a truely perfect board for all conditions. I caught loads of waves in 10 minutes and got a few compliments on my skill. LOL, 15 minutes earlier i was the kook of HMB and now i was a halfway decent wannabe ripper. I'm definately considering picking one up.

swH:12@15 sec;tide+3ft

next day 3/6 went to cowells with the lady. I'm not a fan of the place but i seem to get some great sessions here when i least expect it. I caught the longest ride of my life that day. cruising, at times racing down the face, carving left and racing down the opposite direction, when that died i'd turn and go back. there was a guy about 10 yards s of me that had the same idea. Seana did well too turning and really getting the most out of her waves. My hybrid is a spectacular board. It is too fast for cowells tho. I'd like to start taking it out on smaller days at montara or san gregorio, i think larger shoulder & head high waves are where that board will really work well.

swH:11.2@14.3 sec;tide-.6

I picked up a couple of pretty decent books recently. One is an anthology of Oscar Acosta, very "introspective" i guess is the word i'm looking for. Its interesting to read his letters and really see what kind of person he was. pretty inspirational actually. most Mexican writers dwell on ones "Mexicaness" and only stick to that. but he wrote about problems that face us as people, and his writings are very multicultural. Involving whites, browns, blacks. its fundamentally different than the usual shit. I'm tired of mexican characters bieng mexican characitures, i want a good story where the characters happen to be mex. I also picked up the preacher, an odd story about a broken, drunk preacher in texas who gets nailed by a fucking comet. amazing, a fucking comet with the face of a baby. if this was a movie i'd call bullshit but since its a comic, all is forgiven. so far, its good.