the big swell was dying and the closeouts were fewer than usual. Caught plenty of waves, and actually got some good rides. the problem was my fucking front knee. i would pop up, get my back foot on the board and kind of sit back on my front leg with my knee bent underneath me. I look like a gimp when i try to pop up. Its horrible, when i;m up i'm ruling and doing really well. I've been broken and will take a lesson asap.the nice thing about this last weekend is i got way more out of my rides. they were longer with more puss carves, going right, then left, then right.
8ft@12.5sec+5ft:305deg
The next day was really good. the swell was about the same maybe a 1/2 foot smaller than the day before. it was fairly clean tho, there were no serious closeouts. after catchin loads of rides on the south end i went out to crespi and paddled out. it was a pain. the paddle is farther and the set was killing me. i needed a bigger board and i have to remember that next time i go out there. once out a fucking loan 5 footer was breaking on the outside. everyone groaned like they just saw some sick kid with boogers running down to his mouth and paddled for the outside. like the sick kid, we all ate it. cleaned up. i caught one wave in and gimped out, got all squirrely and fell off. i caught a few more of the reforms on the inside and got some insanely fun juicy rides. then had enough. caught a few more on the south end exhausted and ready for pizza.
6.5ft@13sec+4.5ft:305deg
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