Another full day actually the last two days have been incredibly full. Yesterday after work we went for a ride on the bikes. It was beautiful. With all the rain that trashed the roads and fucked up my surf life it also drenched the shit out of the ground here. but there's all kind of wild flowers popping up all over the place. Especially at the park. All colors it was pretty sweet. all kinds of psuedo wildlife. mostly birds and squirrels but hey, checking out some falcons and wierd colored birds is way cooler than seem some disguisting pigeons. Filthy creatures, goddamn rats with wings. I went
back today during lunch to snap a couple pictures of some of the more interesting flora. I dig the small ones the most but its a pain in the ass taking pictures of 'em cuz they're so damn tiny.
Today after work we hit the jetty. PWR said that LM was 2-4 and good but looking at the cam i could see quite a few closeouts. going to the jetty takes the thinking out of all that. you know for a fact there will be closeouts at the jetty. I took sweet prince out and he turned around bitch slapped me. Actually he did alright but the prince bieng only 6'1" is a bit of a pain for me and i need to get used to it. I got a few waves and actually catching them wasnt the problem but popping up is crazy. it gets a little unstable so i gotta be super fast. I got one bitchin ride tho. it made it worth it. One of those that when you go down you pump your goddamn fist. I caught the wave right on the shoulder and it was about waist high, i was riding up a bit to the top while turning right,the whole thing hadnt closed out yet but it was gettin funky at the top. So i was in a wier psuedo floater which would mush out so i leaned forward and got right back into it. not a sick drop but a good foot and half. of course the whole thing closed out but i had ridden the wave almost the whole way in. at least a 15 second ride. It was great.
Then: crab cocktail, crab cheese bread, fish and shark tacos, and of course beer.
jty 7.5@14sec:300deg+3.61ft
2005/04/01
2005/03/29
2005/03/27
anarcho syndicalist??? 0021
today was incredible, a full day i'd say. the alarm woke me up around 6 and a few snoozes later i was up and carrying 2 boards out to the car. by the time i got to the creek the sun was bright and all the north sc county spots were looking pretty good. I was thinking about the dudes walking out into nothing to psuedo secret spots. One of these days i'll pull over and take a walk down a random ravine like these dudes and find myself a gem.
the wind was blowing when i got out of the car and I was getting a bit discouraged. the creek is notorious for fucked wind blowing out the waves but there was one other guy out catching some nice ones. A couple people were also suiting up so i figured it couldnt be too bad. paddling out was pretty easy through the channel and it was really chill out in the line up. the view from the water is amazing, looking towards the beach is big basin state park, to the north is ano nuevo island. this place is supposedly shark fucking central but you'd never know it. the surfers seem to all cluster around each other here. I dont know if its cuz of the peaks or if its out of fear. I think a person became a shark snack out here once or twice. The waves were a little blown at first. the wind was offshore and the waves were small so so it was a bitch to catch anything, but pretty quickly it died down and things got good. mostly chest to shoulder high stuff.the wave is great cuz it peels and changes. it has some juice so you can really enjoy the ride and rip. I was out for 2 hours and i caught countless waves. the last wave i caught was the kind of wave that makes you remember why you started surfing. I caught it just right and i popped up with out the use of the gimp. altho the popup was gimpish the whole bitch is finally coming together. i caught the thing right in the pocket and i was able to turn and get going pretty quickly, i got some decent slow carves and even tried to a cutback. but my dumb ass was riding the pig that day and pig has other ideas when it comes to cutbacks or even just a simple carve. but the ride was long, the pig put a smile on my face and i had had enough.
the afternoon was the anarchist bookfair. I really enjoyed this, more than i thought i would. It was good to see so many like minded fuckers but discouraging at the same time. there seems to be this unwritten rule that bieng an anarchist somehow also means you dont shower and you smell like a high school wrestlers jock strap. bieng an anarchist should be a point of pride. bieng proud that you can think for yourself and are a socially responsible. but a lot of these animals are in it like a social clique. They go to marches i imagine but do nothing. They claim that they want liberation and break down the system but they dont even know what the system is. they dont work and dont contribute to society or their community in any way. the isolate and marginaize themselves and they do this in the name of "anarchism" I'd like to see older people there, people my age, who work and who know what bieng a corporate slave is. Anarchist movements have only really worked when its come from the working class. not uneducated high school misfits. i was looking forward to seeing the apoc table but i didnt see shit. maybe we're just happy with system. We heard bary patemen speak and the guy was fantastic,i dont know if he reached many people but he spoke on getting normal worker bee folk to not so much get involved but rather know what anarchism really is, we're not gonna burn down their houses (well, maybe just the monsanto headquarters, or united defense). but it would be nice if there were more everyday people who sympathized with the cause. Shit all we're asking is that you realize that we're getting a raw deal. in any case his speach was great, all he asks is that we talk to people. After he spoke i thought a bit about the idea of anarchism in everyday life. trying to stay away from eating gmo foods, patronizing companies that are bit more socially responsible, minimizing dependence on oil, and things like corporate media, simple shit like watching an independent movie rather something retarted like "miss fucking congeniality". Worker owned corps are great too. corps like mondragon and other worker owned business. I know i'd give more of a shit about my job if i had a piece of it. not like a stock option that i still have to buy but rather a legitimate piece of the pie allocated to me. anyways, it was fun, a good experience.
After the book fair Seana and i went to Flax and delisio, which was incredible. the food was delicious and the chocolate cake outstanding. Its a chill place. i enjoy it alot, its nice to relax have a decent meal with Seana and shoot the breeze. Its the kind of place that makes you want to open i'll buy a vineyard and make wine. It can even be worker owned run, especially since Seana and I will be the workers.
side note, try sculpting soapstone.
waddell 4.25@15sec+2-3ft&280deg
the wind was blowing when i got out of the car and I was getting a bit discouraged. the creek is notorious for fucked wind blowing out the waves but there was one other guy out catching some nice ones. A couple people were also suiting up so i figured it couldnt be too bad. paddling out was pretty easy through the channel and it was really chill out in the line up. the view from the water is amazing, looking towards the beach is big basin state park, to the north is ano nuevo island. this place is supposedly shark fucking central but you'd never know it. the surfers seem to all cluster around each other here. I dont know if its cuz of the peaks or if its out of fear. I think a person became a shark snack out here once or twice. The waves were a little blown at first. the wind was offshore and the waves were small so so it was a bitch to catch anything, but pretty quickly it died down and things got good. mostly chest to shoulder high stuff.the wave is great cuz it peels and changes. it has some juice so you can really enjoy the ride and rip. I was out for 2 hours and i caught countless waves. the last wave i caught was the kind of wave that makes you remember why you started surfing. I caught it just right and i popped up with out the use of the gimp. altho the popup was gimpish the whole bitch is finally coming together. i caught the thing right in the pocket and i was able to turn and get going pretty quickly, i got some decent slow carves and even tried to a cutback. but my dumb ass was riding the pig that day and pig has other ideas when it comes to cutbacks or even just a simple carve. but the ride was long, the pig put a smile on my face and i had had enough.
the afternoon was the anarchist bookfair. I really enjoyed this, more than i thought i would. It was good to see so many like minded fuckers but discouraging at the same time. there seems to be this unwritten rule that bieng an anarchist somehow also means you dont shower and you smell like a high school wrestlers jock strap. bieng an anarchist should be a point of pride. bieng proud that you can think for yourself and are a socially responsible. but a lot of these animals are in it like a social clique. They go to marches i imagine but do nothing. They claim that they want liberation and break down the system but they dont even know what the system is. they dont work and dont contribute to society or their community in any way. the isolate and marginaize themselves and they do this in the name of "anarchism" I'd like to see older people there, people my age, who work and who know what bieng a corporate slave is. Anarchist movements have only really worked when its come from the working class. not uneducated high school misfits. i was looking forward to seeing the apoc table but i didnt see shit. maybe we're just happy with system. We heard bary patemen speak and the guy was fantastic,i dont know if he reached many people but he spoke on getting normal worker bee folk to not so much get involved but rather know what anarchism really is, we're not gonna burn down their houses (well, maybe just the monsanto headquarters, or united defense). but it would be nice if there were more everyday people who sympathized with the cause. Shit all we're asking is that you realize that we're getting a raw deal. in any case his speach was great, all he asks is that we talk to people. After he spoke i thought a bit about the idea of anarchism in everyday life. trying to stay away from eating gmo foods, patronizing companies that are bit more socially responsible, minimizing dependence on oil, and things like corporate media, simple shit like watching an independent movie rather something retarted like "miss fucking congeniality". Worker owned corps are great too. corps like mondragon and other worker owned business. I know i'd give more of a shit about my job if i had a piece of it. not like a stock option that i still have to buy but rather a legitimate piece of the pie allocated to me. anyways, it was fun, a good experience.
After the book fair Seana and i went to Flax and delisio, which was incredible. the food was delicious and the chocolate cake outstanding. Its a chill place. i enjoy it alot, its nice to relax have a decent meal with Seana and shoot the breeze. Its the kind of place that makes you want to open i'll buy a vineyard and make wine. It can even be worker owned run, especially since Seana and I will be the workers.
side note, try sculpting soapstone.
waddell 4.25@15sec+2-3ft&280deg
2005/03/26
2005/03/18
adventure and no surfing 0019
so i'm in need of adventure. the more dangerous the better however it seems tougher these days to have a legitimate old school adventure. i'm sure its possible. fuck its totally possible who am i kidding. the truth is its raining outside and i'm too much of a puss to do anything about it. I just read there is some crazy ass bat cave at pinnacles national monument. i've never been there and i'm thinking i should check that shit out, http://www.nps.gov/pinn/visit/bgstatus.htm maybe next weekend. i'm hoping next week will bring decent surf and sunny days but as the homey josh says. "mother earth is a cruel bitch" making it rain on weekends. its horrible, calculated and cold blooded. we should all punch the face of god for making it rain on the weekend. not sure tho. i should perhaps go for a drive up north, true northern california for the weekend and see how those fuckers do. i've been up once and i remember it bieng wierd.
2005/03/17
little men with shields 0018
5.7@14sec:300deg;+3ft
LM on a small wierd swell. At times the water was calm, no wind, then a funky swell would come up and smalls and waves would double up. it was a bit strange. I got there around 4 and was in the water pretty fast. I've got suiting up and suiting down as instint. no thought involved i walk up, suit and boots are on instantly. I took the merrick today which was a good choice. i'm telling you, my surfing skills are getting really good, even able to get decent rides on small assed waves. but the pop up is truely destroying me. Waves were about 3 feet to 5 feet max. PWR was right on the money with their call 3-5 and fair. its a fucking first for me. What was nice is a lot of the waves peeled for a few yards so you got a few seconds of green water before the curtain dropped on you. Also there was some juice left in the swell so you could cruise and swirve your way back to the beach.
I picked up milton's paradise lost. another book i can check off my incredibly long list of books i gotta read.
Just reading about 50's and Games troubles in paradise. Game is from Compton, good rapper, good record, good publicity stunt. Shit, had me reading and frothing at the mouth. lol. i love a good rap beef.
I also picked up the new rolling stone magazine with HST on the cover. theres a page or two on how rock music is dying on the radio... good, the shit they play on the radio sucks, all of it. how someone can listen to corporate pop(if its on the radio its pop)is beyond me. Punk is going back underground and it makes me happy. A lot of good bands coming out. pretty exciting shit.
Rain in the forcast. sucks.
LM on a small wierd swell. At times the water was calm, no wind, then a funky swell would come up and smalls and waves would double up. it was a bit strange. I got there around 4 and was in the water pretty fast. I've got suiting up and suiting down as instint. no thought involved i walk up, suit and boots are on instantly. I took the merrick today which was a good choice. i'm telling you, my surfing skills are getting really good, even able to get decent rides on small assed waves. but the pop up is truely destroying me. Waves were about 3 feet to 5 feet max. PWR was right on the money with their call 3-5 and fair. its a fucking first for me. What was nice is a lot of the waves peeled for a few yards so you got a few seconds of green water before the curtain dropped on you. Also there was some juice left in the swell so you could cruise and swirve your way back to the beach.
I picked up milton's paradise lost. another book i can check off my incredibly long list of books i gotta read.
Just reading about 50's and Games troubles in paradise. Game is from Compton, good rapper, good record, good publicity stunt. Shit, had me reading and frothing at the mouth. lol. i love a good rap beef.
I also picked up the new rolling stone magazine with HST on the cover. theres a page or two on how rock music is dying on the radio... good, the shit they play on the radio sucks, all of it. how someone can listen to corporate pop(if its on the radio its pop)is beyond me. Punk is going back underground and it makes me happy. A lot of good bands coming out. pretty exciting shit.
Rain in the forcast. sucks.
2005/03/15
i can't eat that! 0017
the big swell was dying and the closeouts were fewer than usual. Caught plenty of waves, and actually got some good rides. the problem was my fucking front knee. i would pop up, get my back foot on the board and kind of sit back on my front leg with my knee bent underneath me. I look like a gimp when i try to pop up. Its horrible, when i;m up i'm ruling and doing really well. I've been broken and will take a lesson asap.the nice thing about this last weekend is i got way more out of my rides. they were longer with more puss carves, going right, then left, then right.
8ft@12.5sec+5ft:305deg
The next day was really good. the swell was about the same maybe a 1/2 foot smaller than the day before. it was fairly clean tho, there were no serious closeouts. after catchin loads of rides on the south end i went out to crespi and paddled out. it was a pain. the paddle is farther and the set was killing me. i needed a bigger board and i have to remember that next time i go out there. once out a fucking loan 5 footer was breaking on the outside. everyone groaned like they just saw some sick kid with boogers running down to his mouth and paddled for the outside. like the sick kid, we all ate it. cleaned up. i caught one wave in and gimped out, got all squirrely and fell off. i caught a few more of the reforms on the inside and got some insanely fun juicy rides. then had enough. caught a few more on the south end exhausted and ready for pizza.
6.5ft@13sec+4.5ft:305deg
8ft@12.5sec+5ft:305deg
The next day was really good. the swell was about the same maybe a 1/2 foot smaller than the day before. it was fairly clean tho, there were no serious closeouts. after catchin loads of rides on the south end i went out to crespi and paddled out. it was a pain. the paddle is farther and the set was killing me. i needed a bigger board and i have to remember that next time i go out there. once out a fucking loan 5 footer was breaking on the outside. everyone groaned like they just saw some sick kid with boogers running down to his mouth and paddled for the outside. like the sick kid, we all ate it. cleaned up. i caught one wave in and gimped out, got all squirrely and fell off. i caught a few more of the reforms on the inside and got some insanely fun juicy rides. then had enough. caught a few more on the south end exhausted and ready for pizza.
6.5ft@13sec+4.5ft:305deg
2005/03/07
on call on the ball 0016
The weekend surf, was definately good, bad and ugly. The jetty saturday morning was nutty. there was so much was so much water moving around it was tough to stay in position. I paddled out just after Manabu on the 6'1" and was bieng tossed around in all directions. The swell was fairly large and had mavericks breaking. The jetty is usually fun since the swell is big enough to wrap around the monstrous point and break at the jetty. this was happening but you can tell the effects of the dropping tide. there were plenty of close outs and i was left catching the inside stuff. There were some really good surfers out catching some great racy peelers. however these guys were obviously experienced. The jetty, even in clean conditions, jacks up in nanoseconds. I only caught 2 waves in the hour i was out w/the 6'1" then Manabu offered to switch. He has a 7'5" j.c. equalizer. its an awesome board. wide, thick, plenty of rocker, a truely perfect board for all conditions. I caught loads of waves in 10 minutes and got a few compliments on my skill. LOL, 15 minutes earlier i was the kook of HMB and now i was a halfway decent wannabe ripper. I'm definately considering picking one up.
swH:12@15 sec;tide+3ft
next day 3/6 went to cowells with the lady. I'm not a fan of the place but i seem to get some great sessions here when i least expect it. I caught the longest ride of my life that day. cruising, at times racing down the face, carving left and racing down the opposite direction, when that died i'd turn and go back. there was a guy about 10 yards s of me that had the same idea. Seana did well too turning and really getting the most out of her waves. My hybrid is a spectacular board. It is too fast for cowells tho. I'd like to start taking it out on smaller days at montara or san gregorio, i think larger shoulder & head high waves are where that board will really work well.
swH:11.2@14.3 sec;tide-.6
I picked up a couple of pretty decent books recently. One is an anthology of Oscar Acosta, very "introspective" i guess is the word i'm looking for. Its interesting to read his letters and really see what kind of person he was. pretty inspirational actually. most Mexican writers dwell on ones "Mexicaness" and only stick to that. but he wrote about problems that face us as people, and his writings are very multicultural. Involving whites, browns, blacks. its fundamentally different than the usual shit. I'm tired of mexican characters bieng mexican characitures, i want a good story where the characters happen to be mex. I also picked up the preacher, an odd story about a broken, drunk preacher in texas who gets nailed by a fucking comet. amazing, a fucking comet with the face of a baby. if this was a movie i'd call bullshit but since its a comic, all is forgiven. so far, its good.
swH:12@15 sec;tide+3ft
next day 3/6 went to cowells with the lady. I'm not a fan of the place but i seem to get some great sessions here when i least expect it. I caught the longest ride of my life that day. cruising, at times racing down the face, carving left and racing down the opposite direction, when that died i'd turn and go back. there was a guy about 10 yards s of me that had the same idea. Seana did well too turning and really getting the most out of her waves. My hybrid is a spectacular board. It is too fast for cowells tho. I'd like to start taking it out on smaller days at montara or san gregorio, i think larger shoulder & head high waves are where that board will really work well.
swH:11.2@14.3 sec;tide-.6
I picked up a couple of pretty decent books recently. One is an anthology of Oscar Acosta, very "introspective" i guess is the word i'm looking for. Its interesting to read his letters and really see what kind of person he was. pretty inspirational actually. most Mexican writers dwell on ones "Mexicaness" and only stick to that. but he wrote about problems that face us as people, and his writings are very multicultural. Involving whites, browns, blacks. its fundamentally different than the usual shit. I'm tired of mexican characters bieng mexican characitures, i want a good story where the characters happen to be mex. I also picked up the preacher, an odd story about a broken, drunk preacher in texas who gets nailed by a fucking comet. amazing, a fucking comet with the face of a baby. if this was a movie i'd call bullshit but since its a comic, all is forgiven. so far, its good.
2005/02/21
end of the century
today's the day all hack writers and bloggers get the bright idea that we should perhaps take the time from our meaningless daily lives and write. see, last night hunter thompson shot himself in the head. amazing, terrible, tragic, but how else was the dude supposed to go out? He wasnt gonna conveniently die in his sleep or of old age of "natural causes", (natural causes usually meaning you wake up in the middle of the night in sheer panic asfixiated or having a massive coronary) Nope, it had to be like this. Like all the greats, except perhaps for bukowski who preferred the slow torture of destroying your liver (personally i'm a fan of the liver destruction, which i will resume after work with a bottle of whaler's rum and whole foods cola). But i'll miss reading HST's columns. Tonight the drinks are for the good doctor.
On the train this morning there were three thoughts i had going, one was that I did not surf at all this weekend or this last week. The second was that it was a beautiful morning and i was fool for getting on the train to go to work in the first place. The last was the bullet that when through HST's head. But it was a beautiful morning, sunny, with clouds whizzing above. and still no surf. see, i'm moving next week, which means my weekends are spent packing up my material possesions (which for some reason seems to be a lot, however mostly packing books and trying to figure out what to do with my writings and prints). This has taken an incredible amount of time. Instead of surfing i decided i'd go out, get drunk with my lady and shake my ass a bit. We headed to bigfoot lodge in the city. i had a delicious captian and coke then went to see ffs spin at 330 ritch. fun nights, plenty of drink and still no surf. this will change, i will surf and i will kick your ass while i do it.
On the train this morning there were three thoughts i had going, one was that I did not surf at all this weekend or this last week. The second was that it was a beautiful morning and i was fool for getting on the train to go to work in the first place. The last was the bullet that when through HST's head. But it was a beautiful morning, sunny, with clouds whizzing above. and still no surf. see, i'm moving next week, which means my weekends are spent packing up my material possesions (which for some reason seems to be a lot, however mostly packing books and trying to figure out what to do with my writings and prints). This has taken an incredible amount of time. Instead of surfing i decided i'd go out, get drunk with my lady and shake my ass a bit. We headed to bigfoot lodge in the city. i had a delicious captian and coke then went to see ffs spin at 330 ritch. fun nights, plenty of drink and still no surf. this will change, i will surf and i will kick your ass while i do it.
2004/11/02
the jetty killed. 0014
I was standing at the caltrain station this morning, one hand holding my bike and the other holding a really crappy capuccino from starbucks, then i say outloud, "the waves this morning were fucking great!".
Right after i said that i looked around, worried someone might think i was cracking up but luckily i was all alone.
But damn! this morning's session was the best in a long time. The jetty had small right hand peaks, up to chest high and breaking clean. If you took off at an angle you could really rip. the water was incredibly glassy and smooth. there was just enough south to give you the sickest little peaks.
I was joined out there at the same time by another peninsula surfer from MP. This guy was riding a 6'2 t&c and tearing it up on his popsicle stick. he got nice 2 second barrel and some lay back slasher carves on one wave then busted a wicked frontside air rail grab on othe next.
the jetty killed.
north:6.1@11 sec@300
south:0.5@17sec@237
Right after i said that i looked around, worried someone might think i was cracking up but luckily i was all alone.
But damn! this morning's session was the best in a long time. The jetty had small right hand peaks, up to chest high and breaking clean. If you took off at an angle you could really rip. the water was incredibly glassy and smooth. there was just enough south to give you the sickest little peaks.
I was joined out there at the same time by another peninsula surfer from MP. This guy was riding a 6'2 t&c and tearing it up on his popsicle stick. he got nice 2 second barrel and some lay back slasher carves on one wave then busted a wicked frontside air rail grab on othe next.
the jetty killed.
north:6.1@11 sec@300
south:0.5@17sec@237
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