san g for me

this past saturday, i hit up san gregorio with a guy from the board. we checked out the waves and it looked promising but decided to check out pomponio as well. there didnt appear to be a whole lot there but there were a lot of people pulling up. we went back to san g and suited up. once we got to the shore i was freaking out. i had never surfed anything like it before and i was bit scared. the shore break was a bit more than i was used to and this was the main cause for concern.

the paddle out was fast and furious and once i got to the line up i was pretty much safe. the waves were large and mushy. it was sooooo much fun tho. the occasional 5 or 6 footer would come around and i'd take off on it. I was slow to get on my feet but once up it was great. just a nice wall of water and me. i definately want to head back when its similiar conditions.

4.5 feet@11sec@305degrees


labor day for the workers 0010

great day for surfing, shitty day for surf

it was hot today, really hot, damn hot, too hot. I decided to head out to linda mar first hoping that the conditions might have gotten a little better. but it was crummy. crummy is the best way to describe the surf. it was big, would close out and the white water would take over all the way to the shore. then headed south to GWC and Montara, and there was nobody out. loads of people on the beach and hardly any surfers in the water. continued on and got in at the jetty. there were too many people in the too shitty take off zones. but it was incredibly fun. I caught loads of closed out knee high waves that i was even able to get a carve or two on. It was a total beginners spot today. everyone waiting for the larger sets that would jack up to about waist high and toss the whole lot over. classic. hilarious. I cought a couple of these and got some decent rides. This is soooooo much different than the perfect waves i was catching two weeks ago in hawaii.

great day for surfing, pretty damn good day for surf

I didnt surf today but damn! i saw some great surfing!! I was so jealous. I headed down the coast for a little wine drinking and stopped at a couple spots to check out the surf. San gregorio looked really good today, gentle lefts and rights that still had some juice. I have to remember to look for 3-5 feet swells at around 9 or 10 seconds from about 320 degrees. this seems to produce good waves all along south san mateo county. Pomponio had the most amazing barrels. one out of ever 10 barrells was beautiful, picture perfect, at the end of the ride, the barrell would totally spit, it was like watching a video. Waddel creek was ruling as well. short boarders and longboarders all over catching some great rides, the wave breaking really cleanly. too bad, no board.


shall i or should i shoot the policman 0009

So tomorrow is thursday, i havent surfed since sunday and i could use some time in the water. pacwaverider is predicting 4-7 feet at LM and i really really doubt that'll happen. there is a small south hitting us kinda sorta. i'm hoping to catch some of the love at the jetty. souths there are sweet. only shitty thing is the tide may be too low to really enjoy it. I may take the skimboard in case it sucks ass.

this last trip to hawaii had a bigger impact on me than i originally thought. i really dont like norcal, which is no secret, but i really need a change of scenery. a new break, a new swell direction and perhaps a thinner wetsuit. or a thicker one? i've been thinking about carrying a camera with me everywhere, but i;m such a bonehead that i keep forgetting. also got a book on midgets i need to read.... more later.