anarcho syndicalist??? 0021

today was incredible, a full day i'd say. the alarm woke me up around 6 and a few snoozes later i was up and carrying 2 boards out to the car. by the time i got to the creek the sun was bright and all the north sc county spots were looking pretty good. I was thinking about the dudes walking out into nothing to psuedo secret spots. One of these days i'll pull over and take a walk down a random ravine like these dudes and find myself a gem.

the wind was blowing when i got out of the car and I was getting a bit discouraged. the creek is notorious for fucked wind blowing out the waves but there was one other guy out catching some nice ones. A couple people were also suiting up so i figured it couldnt be too bad. paddling out was pretty easy through the channel and it was really chill out in the line up. the view from the water is amazing, looking towards the beach is big basin state park, to the north is ano nuevo island. this place is supposedly shark fucking central but you'd never know it. the surfers seem to all cluster around each other here. I dont know if its cuz of the peaks or if its out of fear. I think a person became a shark snack out here once or twice. The waves were a little blown at first. the wind was offshore and the waves were small so so it was a bitch to catch anything, but pretty quickly it died down and things got good. mostly chest to shoulder high stuff.the wave is great cuz it peels and changes. it has some juice so you can really enjoy the ride and rip. I was out for 2 hours and i caught countless waves. the last wave i caught was the kind of wave that makes you remember why you started surfing. I caught it just right and i popped up with out the use of the gimp. altho the popup was gimpish the whole bitch is finally coming together. i caught the thing right in the pocket and i was able to turn and get going pretty quickly, i got some decent slow carves and even tried to a cutback. but my dumb ass was riding the pig that day and pig has other ideas when it comes to cutbacks or even just a simple carve. but the ride was long, the pig put a smile on my face and i had had enough.

the afternoon was the anarchist bookfair. I really enjoyed this, more than i thought i would. It was good to see so many like minded fuckers but discouraging at the same time. there seems to be this unwritten rule that bieng an anarchist somehow also means you dont shower and you smell like a high school wrestlers jock strap. bieng an anarchist should be a point of pride. bieng proud that you can think for yourself and are a socially responsible. but a lot of these animals are in it like a social clique. They go to marches i imagine but do nothing. They claim that they want liberation and break down the system but they dont even know what the system is. they dont work and dont contribute to society or their community in any way. the isolate and marginaize themselves and they do this in the name of "anarchism" I'd like to see older people there, people my age, who work and who know what bieng a corporate slave is. Anarchist movements have only really worked when its come from the working class. not uneducated high school misfits. i was looking forward to seeing the apoc table but i didnt see shit. maybe we're just happy with system. We heard bary patemen speak and the guy was fantastic,i dont know if he reached many people but he spoke on getting normal worker bee folk to not so much get involved but rather know what anarchism really is, we're not gonna burn down their houses (well, maybe just the monsanto headquarters, or united defense). but it would be nice if there were more everyday people who sympathized with the cause. Shit all we're asking is that you realize that we're getting a raw deal. in any case his speach was great, all he asks is that we talk to people. After he spoke i thought a bit about the idea of anarchism in everyday life. trying to stay away from eating gmo foods, patronizing companies that are bit more socially responsible, minimizing dependence on oil, and things like corporate media, simple shit like watching an independent movie rather something retarted like "miss fucking congeniality". Worker owned corps are great too. corps like mondragon and other worker owned business. I know i'd give more of a shit about my job if i had a piece of it. not like a stock option that i still have to buy but rather a legitimate piece of the pie allocated to me. anyways, it was fun, a good experience.

After the book fair Seana and i went to Flax and delisio, which was incredible. the food was delicious and the chocolate cake outstanding. Its a chill place. i enjoy it alot, its nice to relax have a decent meal with Seana and shoot the breeze. Its the kind of place that makes you want to open i'll buy a vineyard and make wine. It can even be worker owned run, especially since Seana and I will be the workers.

side note, try sculpting soapstone.

waddell 4.25@15sec+2-3ft&280deg


shitty, dumpy, a few rides


adventure and no surfing 0019

so i'm in need of adventure. the more dangerous the better however it seems tougher these days to have a legitimate old school adventure. i'm sure its possible. fuck its totally possible who am i kidding. the truth is its raining outside and i'm too much of a puss to do anything about it. I just read there is some crazy ass bat cave at pinnacles national monument. i've never been there and i'm thinking i should check that shit out, http://www.nps.gov/pinn/visit/bgstatus.htm maybe next weekend. i'm hoping next week will bring decent surf and sunny days but as the homey josh says. "mother earth is a cruel bitch" making it rain on weekends. its horrible, calculated and cold blooded. we should all punch the face of god for making it rain on the weekend. not sure tho. i should perhaps go for a drive up north, true northern california for the weekend and see how those fuckers do. i've been up once and i remember it bieng wierd.


little men with shields 0018


LM on a small wierd swell. At times the water was calm, no wind, then a funky swell would come up and smalls and waves would double up. it was a bit strange. I got there around 4 and was in the water pretty fast. I've got suiting up and suiting down as instint. no thought involved i walk up, suit and boots are on instantly. I took the merrick today which was a good choice. i'm telling you, my surfing skills are getting really good, even able to get decent rides on small assed waves. but the pop up is truely destroying me. Waves were about 3 feet to 5 feet max. PWR was right on the money with their call 3-5 and fair. its a fucking first for me. What was nice is a lot of the waves peeled for a few yards so you got a few seconds of green water before the curtain dropped on you. Also there was some juice left in the swell so you could cruise and swirve your way back to the beach.

I picked up milton's paradise lost. another book i can check off my incredibly long list of books i gotta read.

Just reading about 50's and Games troubles in paradise. Game is from Compton, good rapper, good record, good publicity stunt. Shit, had me reading and frothing at the mouth. lol. i love a good rap beef.

I also picked up the new rolling stone magazine with HST on the cover. theres a page or two on how rock music is dying on the radio... good, the shit they play on the radio sucks, all of it. how someone can listen to corporate pop(if its on the radio its pop)is beyond me. Punk is going back underground and it makes me happy. A lot of good bands coming out. pretty exciting shit.

Rain in the forcast. sucks.


i can't eat that! 0017

the big swell was dying and the closeouts were fewer than usual. Caught plenty of waves, and actually got some good rides. the problem was my fucking front knee. i would pop up, get my back foot on the board and kind of sit back on my front leg with my knee bent underneath me. I look like a gimp when i try to pop up. Its horrible, when i;m up i'm ruling and doing really well. I've been broken and will take a lesson asap.the nice thing about this last weekend is i got way more out of my rides. they were longer with more puss carves, going right, then left, then right.

The next day was really good. the swell was about the same maybe a 1/2 foot smaller than the day before. it was fairly clean tho, there were no serious closeouts. after catchin loads of rides on the south end i went out to crespi and paddled out. it was a pain. the paddle is farther and the set was killing me. i needed a bigger board and i have to remember that next time i go out there. once out a fucking loan 5 footer was breaking on the outside. everyone groaned like they just saw some sick kid with boogers running down to his mouth and paddled for the outside. like the sick kid, we all ate it. cleaned up. i caught one wave in and gimped out, got all squirrely and fell off. i caught a few more of the reforms on the inside and got some insanely fun juicy rides. then had enough. caught a few more on the south end exhausted and ready for pizza.


on call on the ball 0016

The weekend surf, was definately good, bad and ugly. The jetty saturday morning was nutty. there was so much was so much water moving around it was tough to stay in position. I paddled out just after Manabu on the 6'1" and was bieng tossed around in all directions. The swell was fairly large and had mavericks breaking. The jetty is usually fun since the swell is big enough to wrap around the monstrous point and break at the jetty. this was happening but you can tell the effects of the dropping tide. there were plenty of close outs and i was left catching the inside stuff. There were some really good surfers out catching some great racy peelers. however these guys were obviously experienced. The jetty, even in clean conditions, jacks up in nanoseconds. I only caught 2 waves in the hour i was out w/the 6'1" then Manabu offered to switch. He has a 7'5" j.c. equalizer. its an awesome board. wide, thick, plenty of rocker, a truely perfect board for all conditions. I caught loads of waves in 10 minutes and got a few compliments on my skill. LOL, 15 minutes earlier i was the kook of HMB and now i was a halfway decent wannabe ripper. I'm definately considering picking one up.

swH:12@15 sec;tide+3ft

next day 3/6 went to cowells with the lady. I'm not a fan of the place but i seem to get some great sessions here when i least expect it. I caught the longest ride of my life that day. cruising, at times racing down the face, carving left and racing down the opposite direction, when that died i'd turn and go back. there was a guy about 10 yards s of me that had the same idea. Seana did well too turning and really getting the most out of her waves. My hybrid is a spectacular board. It is too fast for cowells tho. I'd like to start taking it out on smaller days at montara or san gregorio, i think larger shoulder & head high waves are where that board will really work well.

swH:11.2@14.3 sec;tide-.6

I picked up a couple of pretty decent books recently. One is an anthology of Oscar Acosta, very "introspective" i guess is the word i'm looking for. Its interesting to read his letters and really see what kind of person he was. pretty inspirational actually. most Mexican writers dwell on ones "Mexicaness" and only stick to that. but he wrote about problems that face us as people, and his writings are very multicultural. Involving whites, browns, blacks. its fundamentally different than the usual shit. I'm tired of mexican characters bieng mexican characitures, i want a good story where the characters happen to be mex. I also picked up the preacher, an odd story about a broken, drunk preacher in texas who gets nailed by a fucking comet. amazing, a fucking comet with the face of a baby. if this was a movie i'd call bullshit but since its a comic, all is forgiven. so far, its good.