been skating for years bitches!

So today i started taking glucosamine. Old skaters swear by it. I may no longer skate but i surf and its still hell on the knees. They hurt sometimes when i walk, sometimes when i run, at times when i ride the bike, when i surf, skate, shit, relax, drink beer...etc.

so you get the picture. Its a wierd realization/admittal that my body is not the same as it was even 5 years ago. Not yet 30 and i already need "Joint Support" (hehehehe). I'm not saddened by it tho. I've earned it. I've skated some bitchin spots and loved every minute. This new admission and self medication has got me thinking maybe i should start skating again. I'll grab myelf a shifty longboard and just enjoy the ride.

The surf should be decent this week as well. Got the low low tide hitting in the morning and we got the south swell which should rule the jetty in the evening hours. A whole day of angry surfing, maybe some chill surfing, maybe a little drinking, eating and loving as well.

Skate to hell!

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0026: surfing race battles

Yesterday i went out. it was rather nice, i didnt get to the beach till pretty late. around 7 and i was in the water shortly after. the waves were tiny. some pealers, mostly mush crap all up and down the beach. Its not like it was better in one spot vs another but anyways. the swell was pushing maybe 3 or 4 ft at around 13 seconds from 300 deg. AND the tide was around 3ft. i took the prince out. it was pretty good to me. i'm getting the hang of it and popping up much faster than when i first got it. I caught a few nice ones and one in particular which was a great drop in with a killer racy down the line to a cutback. good times. the sun went down and only one other person out. cant complain. pretty sweet.

So In LA there are race riots at some schools. stupid we;re fighting eachother for nothing. kids too young to really even be making any money selling drugs. Someone needs to break it down to them and show them they're all in the same boat. they're all struggling for no reason. Just going to school to learn to be better workers for the corporations, fighting eachother only to end up making someone else rich.


0025: wine lobster & bad surf

a total lack of planning is usually whats needed to enjoy oneself. to learn about the one you're with. the road to valle de guadalupe is not too long but twisty and probably pretty dangerous if one was to think too much about it.

the valley itself is beautiful, high above the sea you're warmed by the sun and at the same time cooled down by the coastal breeze. The rains made the environment green, lush i guess is the word. you can see the wineries all around, seemingly endless vineyards with sandstone boulders tossed around the land. the hills were full of trees that reminded me of northern arizona, even down to the red earth. Strolling around the L.A. Cetto vinicula we headed out to the end of the monstrous tanks, daring each other to go inside the warehouse which was enourmous and lonely. there were quite a few tourists, mostly from a bus which starts at ensenada and heads into the hills. The start of the tasting was a bit dissappointing. Poor sweet wines and i was thinking, "shit this'll suck". Then they broke out with some of their award winning reds which were fantastic. Really good wines and definately worth the price. they were pretty inexpensive. Drunk, we drove down a bit to dona lupe's winery which is some organic spot. she makes all kinds of shit, jams, jellies, salsa, cookies and wine. wine that reminded me of decent jug wine. the more you drink the better it tastes till soon enough you're sitting staring at an empty bottle wondering how the hell did you end up in the middle of mexico's wine country. There was a herd of cows which makes me realize they truely are the dumbest animals on the planet. acres of open space and they all cram themselves into a tiny corner.

sitting at villa ortegas' we were watching some dudes try to boogie board the breaks. but they were trying to get out through the small but still pounding shore break instead of choosing one of the many rips.

ensenada sucks, would never go there again.

10am and there;s a sliver of sun screaming through the curtains. oh, how i fucking hate that. the rooms dark as night and you got this bright "come to jesus" light blazing from the window. its cruel but a reminder that the day is waiting for me. we head over to mission beach. not sure why but why not. they have board rentals and we dont have shit to do. we get there and the waves are crap. total slop, junky 3 foot closeouts coming one after the other. for about 5minutes it cleans up and we decide we're going in. we rent the boards and end up having one of the shittiest sessions ever. but i got to ride a twin fin fish. a fun board, kind of loos and easy to catch waves. the waves are all closing out rather viciously and the mix of north and south swell is creating some ugly wedges. we're out in about an hour. but back at the shop there;s a white boy working the counter who is really cool. we shoot the shit about nor cal surf and how its so isolated and the landscape is incredible. he tells us about his trip to indo and his truck which also doubles as a full on campsite. jealous and at the same time enjoying the conversation. this guy runs a surf shop, and enjoys his life. I realize i have it pretty good i could surf everyday if i wanted too. however the convenience these guys have and the access to good waves is definately something to envy. We went to the gaslamp after which is kind of a monstrous 3rd st. promenade. the architecture is really cool but the restaurants and bars are kind of shitty.

i enjoyed the rest of the day tho and i'd rather not write about it. it was lazy and beautiful. its hard to describe the chill feeling i got from staring at the water from oceanside, la jolla beach and reefs. it was chill, i should do it again.

I think i want to shape a mini surfboard out of balsa.


0024: jet plane

i guess this flights about halfway through. flying over who knows where, an hour long flight and all i get to watch is goddamn friends. this flight has gotten shitty tho. flying somewhere over some valley by the 101 freeway. it started off great, watchin mavericks go off with some junky ass bombs and OB breaking a mile out to sea. ugly but really fuggin interesting. weekend split is what this is. wake up early saturday morning hop on a plane and go somewhere new. I've only really check out SD once or twice. seemed nice, kinda small kinda neat. holy fuck i think we're flying over LA. i now there aint no sprawling megalopolis in the central valley like the one i see out my window. san gabriel bitches, thats the spot. thats my home. wow. but i'm lookin forward to lobster dinners and chill surfing. will either happen? dunno, but i hope so.


0023: massive demonstration

I was listening here to some kpfa radio show about the american media intentionally not covering anti-us demonstrations. We all just want to know that shit is peachy. perfect.

WEEEELLLLLLL, yesterday the swell was small, insignificant fun when not closing out violently. let me tell you, trying to ride a longboard on knee high closeouts is not fun. It was enough for me to go running back to sweet prince for those short rides, like surfing a potato chip. I think i caught 2 decent rides one on the shorty prince which did make me work. pumping the board and all that fun. plus popping up is getting better. still a bit gimpy but definately making some solid improvement. The other good ride was on the flower. nice semi long one but these waves after they closed out got crazy mushy. occasionaly a hip or waist high set would come in. but those were horrible. they'd jack up and throw over. suck ass waves. buuuuuuuuuut, it was still fun. i missed the sponsler class, but no big deal there tho. I'd rather go surfing than be in a class room. LM



0022: spring

Another full day actually the last two days have been incredibly full. Yesterday after work we went for a ride on the bikes. It was beautiful. With all the rain that trashed the roads and fucked up my surf life it also drenched the shit out of the ground here. but there's all kind of wild flowers popping up all over the place. Especially at the park. All colors it was pretty sweet. all kinds of psuedo wildlife. mostly birds and squirrels but hey, checking out some falcons and wierd colored birds is way cooler than seem some disguisting pigeons. Filthy creatures, goddamn rats with wings. I went
back today during lunch to snap a couple pictures of some of the more interesting flora. I dig the small ones the most but its a pain in the ass taking pictures of 'em cuz they're so damn tiny.

Today after work we hit the jetty. PWR said that LM was 2-4 and good but looking at the cam i could see quite a few closeouts. going to the jetty takes the thinking out of all that. you know for a fact there will be closeouts at the jetty. I took sweet prince out and he turned around bitch slapped me. Actually he did alright but the prince bieng only 6'1" is a bit of a pain for me and i need to get used to it. I got a few waves and actually catching them wasnt the problem but popping up is crazy. it gets a little unstable so i gotta be super fast. I got one bitchin ride tho. it made it worth it. One of those that when you go down you pump your goddamn fist. I caught the wave right on the shoulder and it was about waist high, i was riding up a bit to the top while turning right,the whole thing hadnt closed out yet but it was gettin funky at the top. So i was in a wier psuedo floater which would mush out so i leaned forward and got right back into it. not a sick drop but a good foot and half. of course the whole thing closed out but i had ridden the wave almost the whole way in. at least a 15 second ride. It was great.

Then: crab cocktail, crab cheese bread, fish and shark tacos, and of course beer.

jty 7.5@14sec:300deg+3.61ft