the new and blue

Surfed a new spot. The drive over was pretty dismal. I wasnt excited to go to the jetty but i thought, "i gotta get wet, gotta relax and enjoy the surf" the recent shark attack was on my mind but it was in such deep water that i figured the area was chill.

Checked out d's first and it was decent. A few local folks around. then i checked out the jetty and it seemed every kook from LM was there. It was packed. boards flying everywhere. sheer madness and there was no way i was gonna get myself caught up in that bullshit.

Next i went to small creek mouth that was off the hook. semi clean breaking and really fun.



I ended up at the hook about 630 this morning. some decent sets but there was already at least a dozen longboarders on the main peak and 3 guys at the peak further east. It was the first time i surfed that spot. I really liked it and i was wondering where sharks was from that spot. I rarely surf the eastside. So anyways i sat inside in between the two packs and i picked off the short rides that no one else got.

Its a wierd place, the surfers there were not particularly good but they all acted as if they should be on the wct. heavy attitudes. The waves were nice tho. I think i could get a lot better if i surfed those kinds of waves rather than the usual super fast close outs that SMC beaches dish up. I definately plan on going back most likely super early tho.


0034 just right and super good

I had a great weekend of surf. 6.6 @ 14 seconds coming from somewhere nw. lm was excellent while most other places were closed out and ugly. The jetty which normally grooms unruly swells was small and disorganized. But the offshores has LM as perfect as i've ever seen it.

The jetty the day before was beautiful, providing excellent lefts and rights. some great speedy rights which were ruling.

I needed these days off. too much work and not enough of anything else ruins life. this happens too often. I'll have to keep up on this shit.


glad you werent here Posted by Picasa

picture perfect Posted by Picasa

0031: glad you werent here.

friday 3pm and i ran out. the work recently has kept up at a pace thats been difficult to keep up with. more responsibility means more people with the eye out over you. dont slip, they'll know. but the weather had been decent and the prospects good for a decent evening.

I was glad to ditch the pager.

the wait for M was unbearable. I wanted to get to LM before it got too late and the lady would change her mind. Even left before i'd heard the word from M just to make sure there'd be some rides in my near future. the brief stop for tea was in order then the trip to the beach was made. 40 minutes. a terribly long time and terribly boring drive.

Amazingly the small conditions made for excellent shape and a carvable face on a pretty decent wave. The experience and countless trips to the area breaks have allowed me to call the right spot for the right conditions. we had great 3 footers and the occasianal 4 foot that would simply kill. Just two of us paddled out in front of the taco bell and sat out far to the left of a crowd of salty fuckers. pretty much alone, we didnt have to wait long till the set came in and it was fantastic. the sets were spaced just right and we didnt have to hardly wait 5 minutes before a decent wave would roll in. beautiful carvable faces, the hog performed to perfection. going up the face and dropping some wait on the tail to whip its fat ass down the line. The drop ins were picture perfect, keeping the nose from digging and pulling the bottom turn for a decent trim. Wave after wave this happened. unreal. it was a real treat and a nice change from recent sessions of endless paddling and endless burns.

The next morning i headed to the reef break with high hopes of clean faces and magazine photo conditions. Instead it looked like LM on a shitty small day. A small crowd had already formed and it looked dumpy and closed out. Hardly worth jumping in for. I drove up and the spots all looked promising but for some reason or another i didnt feel comfortable going in. I ended up a decent hidden sand bar fishing for perch. casting off of 40 min allows a person to get pretty bored but i was really entertained staring at the waves rolling in. most about 4 ft and the occasional head high set wave was making me wish M had woken up so i'd be out on the water instead of futily tossing plastic worms out into the rips. The hike up to the car is a bitch. A vicious steep ravine bordering on canyon, alone it spooked me. I'd jump after hearing birds jump from bush to bush. I kept thinking i'd get bit by some fucking snake and hope poor bastard driving by would be nice enough to suck the poison out! but by the car there were some people who where getting ready to make the trip back down for a couple of rides.

fantastic. speedy waves pushing in with nice faces. my second wave was classic. a nice head high peeler that i made a picture perfect drop on and pulled a nice bottom turn on. I was heading down the line and i realized i gotta take advantage of my luck and go up the face for one carve. I pushed out on the tail and then dug in, raced up the face and pushed out one more time for a drop back in, one more bottom turn and i was good. just headed down the line smiling.

This went on for a while. when i surf shittier waves i try to get the most of them, push for as many carves as possible but this wave was different. the environment was something out of a nature mag. sitting out you see nothing but open ocean. Riding the wave is dreamlike. you drop in and turn and just kind of stare at the water in front. I almost lose myself in it all.


Try me



Juan more

0030: titties are fun

endless documentation leads to a shitload of nothing. Sunny day yesterday afternoon and junky conditions. local windswell coming in at about 6 ft@8sec from who gives a shit what direction. I'll tell you, in conditions like that, its not worth getting down to the nitty gritty details. It was small, lumpy but still fun. i dont mind the small waves, i just dont like how its one after another after a fucking nother. it makes the rip a hell hole and getting out super shitty. but again, it was still fun. the prince is starting to do me right. i dinged it. repaired it and slapped a sticker over the ding. still works fine. sometimes i stress that it might've taken on water but it still rides and feels the same. my next shorty will be very similiar, maybe a a couple inches longer. but i'm diggin this one. The rest of the week is supposed to be pretty shitty, really small and not much love coming our way. socal conditions i guess.

So anyways, i'm a carving and slashing machine! Yeaaaahhhh! ...whatever

can you tell how shitty it was from the pics??? hehehe, camera phones are funky, you can say its an artsy impressionist pic or a pic from a piece of shit camera phone.

well, sun's come out. waves are small. time to climb.


0028: humble mumble

early morning sessions kill me evertime. i'd rather sleep in all honesty but i also enjoy the company of others when surfing new spots so sometimes i need to bite the bullet and wake up. I'd hate to paddle out alone, get eaten then never be heard from again. We headed for parts south. which i was happy to go since i really dig the beaches down there. all the spots were small and not much was hitting till we got to by pescadero. what looked like nice mushy gentle waves with a violent beach break. timing is everything for these bitches. wait for the flat spell then run in and start paddling. I made out ok, no worries there and then i just waited. It was a nice morning but i was dog tired and sleepy. The waves were nice actually, a bit wierd tho as they seemed to be walling up quickly and thats not what it looked like from the beach. I dunno, maybe i was just pussin out but it was spooky. I caught quite a few bitchen rides tho. I was amazed by how racy and fast the rides were. it was great, super carvable and fast. I was a friends 7'0 and i was able to whip that thing in any direction. super sweet.


Kenzai 特别のLife wicked shit

Kenzai 特别のLife

0027: Why yes that was me busting that wicked cutback

My friends brother lives in hawaii and surfs as well. Something i was told he said makes a lot of sense. "how do you expect to get good surfing these crappy waves" and the guy is totally right. You wont get really good surfing linda mar and the jump from places like that to Montara is pretty drastic. Yesterday and actually this last weekend was quite a breakthrough for me. This last weekend i was at cowell's. I kind of dont like the place but its a good time tho every now and then and i like surfing there with my wife. But i was really surfing the place well, carving on the hog and really riding the wave. yesterday was LM in the late afternoon. The waves were small and pretty shitty except for a couple of rides. I was out on the sweet prince and i got one wave in particular where i got set up relatively quickly and the wave just lined up pretty nicely in front of me. Seeing this i did a small frontside carve to get some speed and go back down the small face, then i went up for a frontside cutback. Shit, it probably looked like a gimp surfing a 2x4 but for me, hell, it was sweet.

anyways, the swell was small about 3 feet at 13 sec. I dont know where it was coming from and i kind of dont care. The jetty should;ve been nice and i'd like to hit it soon. Also looking forward to summer surfing montara and san gregorio.

The Hog jr. needs to be repaired again, which kind of sucks. maybe today i'll work on it a bit more but i need some damn sawhorses. AAAANNNDD, my backyard doesnt get any light. So the temp is always pretty low, which means i need a damn thermometer back there so i know when its safe to work on him.


been skating for years bitches!

So today i started taking glucosamine. Old skaters swear by it. I may no longer skate but i surf and its still hell on the knees. They hurt sometimes when i walk, sometimes when i run, at times when i ride the bike, when i surf, skate, shit, relax, drink beer...etc.

so you get the picture. Its a wierd realization/admittal that my body is not the same as it was even 5 years ago. Not yet 30 and i already need "Joint Support" (hehehehe). I'm not saddened by it tho. I've earned it. I've skated some bitchin spots and loved every minute. This new admission and self medication has got me thinking maybe i should start skating again. I'll grab myelf a shifty longboard and just enjoy the ride.

The surf should be decent this week as well. Got the low low tide hitting in the morning and we got the south swell which should rule the jetty in the evening hours. A whole day of angry surfing, maybe some chill surfing, maybe a little drinking, eating and loving as well.

Skate to hell!

hidden castle Posted by Hello

big rock Posted by Hello

tafoni pony Posted by Hello


0026: surfing race battles

Yesterday i went out. it was rather nice, i didnt get to the beach till pretty late. around 7 and i was in the water shortly after. the waves were tiny. some pealers, mostly mush crap all up and down the beach. Its not like it was better in one spot vs another but anyways. the swell was pushing maybe 3 or 4 ft at around 13 seconds from 300 deg. AND the tide was around 3ft. i took the prince out. it was pretty good to me. i'm getting the hang of it and popping up much faster than when i first got it. I caught a few nice ones and one in particular which was a great drop in with a killer racy down the line to a cutback. good times. the sun went down and only one other person out. cant complain. pretty sweet.

So In LA there are race riots at some schools. stupid we;re fighting eachother for nothing. kids too young to really even be making any money selling drugs. Someone needs to break it down to them and show them they're all in the same boat. they're all struggling for no reason. Just going to school to learn to be better workers for the corporations, fighting eachother only to end up making someone else rich.


0025: wine lobster & bad surf

a total lack of planning is usually whats needed to enjoy oneself. to learn about the one you're with. the road to valle de guadalupe is not too long but twisty and probably pretty dangerous if one was to think too much about it.

the valley itself is beautiful, high above the sea you're warmed by the sun and at the same time cooled down by the coastal breeze. The rains made the environment green, lush i guess is the word. you can see the wineries all around, seemingly endless vineyards with sandstone boulders tossed around the land. the hills were full of trees that reminded me of northern arizona, even down to the red earth. Strolling around the L.A. Cetto vinicula we headed out to the end of the monstrous tanks, daring each other to go inside the warehouse which was enourmous and lonely. there were quite a few tourists, mostly from a bus which starts at ensenada and heads into the hills. The start of the tasting was a bit dissappointing. Poor sweet wines and i was thinking, "shit this'll suck". Then they broke out with some of their award winning reds which were fantastic. Really good wines and definately worth the price. they were pretty inexpensive. Drunk, we drove down a bit to dona lupe's winery which is some organic spot. she makes all kinds of shit, jams, jellies, salsa, cookies and wine. wine that reminded me of decent jug wine. the more you drink the better it tastes till soon enough you're sitting staring at an empty bottle wondering how the hell did you end up in the middle of mexico's wine country. There was a herd of cows which makes me realize they truely are the dumbest animals on the planet. acres of open space and they all cram themselves into a tiny corner.

sitting at villa ortegas' we were watching some dudes try to boogie board the breaks. but they were trying to get out through the small but still pounding shore break instead of choosing one of the many rips.

ensenada sucks, would never go there again.

10am and there;s a sliver of sun screaming through the curtains. oh, how i fucking hate that. the rooms dark as night and you got this bright "come to jesus" light blazing from the window. its cruel but a reminder that the day is waiting for me. we head over to mission beach. not sure why but why not. they have board rentals and we dont have shit to do. we get there and the waves are crap. total slop, junky 3 foot closeouts coming one after the other. for about 5minutes it cleans up and we decide we're going in. we rent the boards and end up having one of the shittiest sessions ever. but i got to ride a twin fin fish. a fun board, kind of loos and easy to catch waves. the waves are all closing out rather viciously and the mix of north and south swell is creating some ugly wedges. we're out in about an hour. but back at the shop there;s a white boy working the counter who is really cool. we shoot the shit about nor cal surf and how its so isolated and the landscape is incredible. he tells us about his trip to indo and his truck which also doubles as a full on campsite. jealous and at the same time enjoying the conversation. this guy runs a surf shop, and enjoys his life. I realize i have it pretty good i could surf everyday if i wanted too. however the convenience these guys have and the access to good waves is definately something to envy. We went to the gaslamp after which is kind of a monstrous 3rd st. promenade. the architecture is really cool but the restaurants and bars are kind of shitty.

i enjoyed the rest of the day tho and i'd rather not write about it. it was lazy and beautiful. its hard to describe the chill feeling i got from staring at the water from oceanside, la jolla beach and reefs. it was chill, i should do it again.

I think i want to shape a mini surfboard out of balsa.


0024: jet plane

i guess this flights about halfway through. flying over who knows where, an hour long flight and all i get to watch is goddamn friends. this flight has gotten shitty tho. flying somewhere over some valley by the 101 freeway. it started off great, watchin mavericks go off with some junky ass bombs and OB breaking a mile out to sea. ugly but really fuggin interesting. weekend split is what this is. wake up early saturday morning hop on a plane and go somewhere new. I've only really check out SD once or twice. seemed nice, kinda small kinda neat. holy fuck i think we're flying over LA. i now there aint no sprawling megalopolis in the central valley like the one i see out my window. san gabriel bitches, thats the spot. thats my home. wow. but i'm lookin forward to lobster dinners and chill surfing. will either happen? dunno, but i hope so.


0023: massive demonstration

I was listening here to some kpfa radio show about the american media intentionally not covering anti-us demonstrations. We all just want to know that shit is peachy. perfect.

WEEEELLLLLLL, yesterday the swell was small, insignificant fun when not closing out violently. let me tell you, trying to ride a longboard on knee high closeouts is not fun. It was enough for me to go running back to sweet prince for those short rides, like surfing a potato chip. I think i caught 2 decent rides one on the shorty prince which did make me work. pumping the board and all that fun. plus popping up is getting better. still a bit gimpy but definately making some solid improvement. The other good ride was on the flower. nice semi long one but these waves after they closed out got crazy mushy. occasionaly a hip or waist high set would come in. but those were horrible. they'd jack up and throw over. suck ass waves. buuuuuuuuuut, it was still fun. i missed the sponsler class, but no big deal there tho. I'd rather go surfing than be in a class room. LM



0022: spring

Another full day actually the last two days have been incredibly full. Yesterday after work we went for a ride on the bikes. It was beautiful. With all the rain that trashed the roads and fucked up my surf life it also drenched the shit out of the ground here. but there's all kind of wild flowers popping up all over the place. Especially at the park. All colors it was pretty sweet. all kinds of psuedo wildlife. mostly birds and squirrels but hey, checking out some falcons and wierd colored birds is way cooler than seem some disguisting pigeons. Filthy creatures, goddamn rats with wings. I went
back today during lunch to snap a couple pictures of some of the more interesting flora. I dig the small ones the most but its a pain in the ass taking pictures of 'em cuz they're so damn tiny.

Today after work we hit the jetty. PWR said that LM was 2-4 and good but looking at the cam i could see quite a few closeouts. going to the jetty takes the thinking out of all that. you know for a fact there will be closeouts at the jetty. I took sweet prince out and he turned around bitch slapped me. Actually he did alright but the prince bieng only 6'1" is a bit of a pain for me and i need to get used to it. I got a few waves and actually catching them wasnt the problem but popping up is crazy. it gets a little unstable so i gotta be super fast. I got one bitchin ride tho. it made it worth it. One of those that when you go down you pump your goddamn fist. I caught the wave right on the shoulder and it was about waist high, i was riding up a bit to the top while turning right,the whole thing hadnt closed out yet but it was gettin funky at the top. So i was in a wier psuedo floater which would mush out so i leaned forward and got right back into it. not a sick drop but a good foot and half. of course the whole thing closed out but i had ridden the wave almost the whole way in. at least a 15 second ride. It was great.

Then: crab cocktail, crab cheese bread, fish and shark tacos, and of course beer.

jty 7.5@14sec:300deg+3.61ft


anarcho syndicalist??? 0021

today was incredible, a full day i'd say. the alarm woke me up around 6 and a few snoozes later i was up and carrying 2 boards out to the car. by the time i got to the creek the sun was bright and all the north sc county spots were looking pretty good. I was thinking about the dudes walking out into nothing to psuedo secret spots. One of these days i'll pull over and take a walk down a random ravine like these dudes and find myself a gem.

the wind was blowing when i got out of the car and I was getting a bit discouraged. the creek is notorious for fucked wind blowing out the waves but there was one other guy out catching some nice ones. A couple people were also suiting up so i figured it couldnt be too bad. paddling out was pretty easy through the channel and it was really chill out in the line up. the view from the water is amazing, looking towards the beach is big basin state park, to the north is ano nuevo island. this place is supposedly shark fucking central but you'd never know it. the surfers seem to all cluster around each other here. I dont know if its cuz of the peaks or if its out of fear. I think a person became a shark snack out here once or twice. The waves were a little blown at first. the wind was offshore and the waves were small so so it was a bitch to catch anything, but pretty quickly it died down and things got good. mostly chest to shoulder high stuff.the wave is great cuz it peels and changes. it has some juice so you can really enjoy the ride and rip. I was out for 2 hours and i caught countless waves. the last wave i caught was the kind of wave that makes you remember why you started surfing. I caught it just right and i popped up with out the use of the gimp. altho the popup was gimpish the whole bitch is finally coming together. i caught the thing right in the pocket and i was able to turn and get going pretty quickly, i got some decent slow carves and even tried to a cutback. but my dumb ass was riding the pig that day and pig has other ideas when it comes to cutbacks or even just a simple carve. but the ride was long, the pig put a smile on my face and i had had enough.

the afternoon was the anarchist bookfair. I really enjoyed this, more than i thought i would. It was good to see so many like minded fuckers but discouraging at the same time. there seems to be this unwritten rule that bieng an anarchist somehow also means you dont shower and you smell like a high school wrestlers jock strap. bieng an anarchist should be a point of pride. bieng proud that you can think for yourself and are a socially responsible. but a lot of these animals are in it like a social clique. They go to marches i imagine but do nothing. They claim that they want liberation and break down the system but they dont even know what the system is. they dont work and dont contribute to society or their community in any way. the isolate and marginaize themselves and they do this in the name of "anarchism" I'd like to see older people there, people my age, who work and who know what bieng a corporate slave is. Anarchist movements have only really worked when its come from the working class. not uneducated high school misfits. i was looking forward to seeing the apoc table but i didnt see shit. maybe we're just happy with system. We heard bary patemen speak and the guy was fantastic,i dont know if he reached many people but he spoke on getting normal worker bee folk to not so much get involved but rather know what anarchism really is, we're not gonna burn down their houses (well, maybe just the monsanto headquarters, or united defense). but it would be nice if there were more everyday people who sympathized with the cause. Shit all we're asking is that you realize that we're getting a raw deal. in any case his speach was great, all he asks is that we talk to people. After he spoke i thought a bit about the idea of anarchism in everyday life. trying to stay away from eating gmo foods, patronizing companies that are bit more socially responsible, minimizing dependence on oil, and things like corporate media, simple shit like watching an independent movie rather something retarted like "miss fucking congeniality". Worker owned corps are great too. corps like mondragon and other worker owned business. I know i'd give more of a shit about my job if i had a piece of it. not like a stock option that i still have to buy but rather a legitimate piece of the pie allocated to me. anyways, it was fun, a good experience.

After the book fair Seana and i went to Flax and delisio, which was incredible. the food was delicious and the chocolate cake outstanding. Its a chill place. i enjoy it alot, its nice to relax have a decent meal with Seana and shoot the breeze. Its the kind of place that makes you want to open i'll buy a vineyard and make wine. It can even be worker owned run, especially since Seana and I will be the workers.

side note, try sculpting soapstone.

waddell 4.25@15sec+2-3ft&280deg


shitty, dumpy, a few rides