I ended up at the hook about 630 this morning. some decent sets but there was already at least a dozen longboarders on the main peak and 3 guys at the peak further east. It was the first time i surfed that spot. I really liked it and i was wondering where sharks was from that spot. I rarely surf the eastside. So anyways i sat inside in between the two packs and i picked off the short rides that no one else got.

Its a wierd place, the surfers there were not particularly good but they all acted as if they should be on the wct. heavy attitudes. The waves were nice tho. I think i could get a lot better if i surfed those kinds of waves rather than the usual super fast close outs that SMC beaches dish up. I definately plan on going back most likely super early tho.


0034 just right and super good

I had a great weekend of surf. 6.6 @ 14 seconds coming from somewhere nw. lm was excellent while most other places were closed out and ugly. The jetty which normally grooms unruly swells was small and disorganized. But the offshores has LM as perfect as i've ever seen it.

The jetty the day before was beautiful, providing excellent lefts and rights. some great speedy rights which were ruling.

I needed these days off. too much work and not enough of anything else ruins life. this happens too often. I'll have to keep up on this shit.