2005/11/08

the new and blue

Surfed a new spot. The drive over was pretty dismal. I wasnt excited to go to the jetty but i thought, "i gotta get wet, gotta relax and enjoy the surf" the recent shark attack was on my mind but it was in such deep water that i figured the area was chill.

Checked out d's first and it was decent. A few local folks around. then i checked out the jetty and it seemed every kook from LM was there. It was packed. boards flying everywhere. sheer madness and there was no way i was gonna get myself caught up in that bullshit.

Next i went to small creek mouth that was off the hook. semi clean breaking and really fun.