2005/10/21

0034 just right and super good

I had a great weekend of surf. 6.6 @ 14 seconds coming from somewhere nw. lm was excellent while most other places were closed out and ugly. The jetty which normally grooms unruly swells was small and disorganized. But the offshores has LM as perfect as i've ever seen it.

The jetty the day before was beautiful, providing excellent lefts and rights. some great speedy rights which were ruling.

I needed these days off. too much work and not enough of anything else ruins life. this happens too often. I'll have to keep up on this shit.

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