2005/04/27

0026: surfing race battles

Yesterday i went out. it was rather nice, i didnt get to the beach till pretty late. around 7 and i was in the water shortly after. the waves were tiny. some pealers, mostly mush crap all up and down the beach. Its not like it was better in one spot vs another but anyways. the swell was pushing maybe 3 or 4 ft at around 13 seconds from 300 deg. AND the tide was around 3ft. i took the prince out. it was pretty good to me. i'm getting the hang of it and popping up much faster than when i first got it. I caught a few nice ones and one in particular which was a great drop in with a killer racy down the line to a cutback. good times. the sun went down and only one other person out. cant complain. pretty sweet.

So In LA there are race riots at some schools. stupid we;re fighting eachother for nothing. kids too young to really even be making any money selling drugs. Someone needs to break it down to them and show them they're all in the same boat. they're all struggling for no reason. Just going to school to learn to be better workers for the corporations, fighting eachother only to end up making someone else rich.

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