little men with shields 0018

5.7@14sec:300deg;+3ft

LM on a small wierd swell. At times the water was calm, no wind, then a funky swell would come up and smalls and waves would double up. it was a bit strange. I got there around 4 and was in the water pretty fast. I've got suiting up and suiting down as instint. no thought involved i walk up, suit and boots are on instantly. I took the merrick today which was a good choice. i'm telling you, my surfing skills are getting really good, even able to get decent rides on small assed waves. but the pop up is truely destroying me. Waves were about 3 feet to 5 feet max. PWR was right on the money with their call 3-5 and fair. its a fucking first for me. What was nice is a lot of the waves peeled for a few yards so you got a few seconds of green water before the curtain dropped on you. Also there was some juice left in the swell so you could cruise and swirve your way back to the beach.

I picked up milton's paradise lost. another book i can check off my incredibly long list of books i gotta read.

Just reading about 50's and Games troubles in paradise. Game is from Compton, good rapper, good record, good publicity stunt. Shit, had me reading and frothing at the mouth. lol. i love a good rap beef.

I also picked up the new rolling stone magazine with HST on the cover. theres a page or two on how rock music is dying on the radio... good, the shit they play on the radio sucks, all of it. how someone can listen to corporate pop(if its on the radio its pop)is beyond me. Punk is going back underground and it makes me happy. A lot of good bands coming out. pretty exciting shit.

Rain in the forcast. sucks.