Packed LM in the morning. Got there, gates were locked,parked in the TacoHell parking lot, suited up, jumped in, in front of the pumphouse. waves were small but only one other person out so had the peak pretty much to myself. Got tired of the small waves, and went north, not way north but just about, again, I got there at perfect time only one head on that peak and caught some really good chest high waves, fun drop ins, but wasnt able really to carve, too much crumble.
5ft@8sec330:F4ft
2006/08/18
2006/08/15
LMLMLMLMLMLMLM
what a trip, i was out there from about 630 till 8 surfed in front of the taco bell (no one there but really small) then went north a bit of the showers,(surfed there for about 30 minutes and it got mobbed) then in front of the showers. Waves were small. decent session, I sold my longboard and it was a good move. Now i'm forced to use my shorter boards. I've been surfing my CIS lately and its been working great. Not switching around boards too much has given me a bit more consistency in my surfing and I've been improving lately. Been gettin compliments on my rides, which is pretty nice.
The waves were maybe hip high at most. the tide was low so bigger waves were dumpy. the north end looked good but I was amazed by the amount of people. I also got there as the pig was unlocking the lot. who knew.
I've been going out and catching waves pretty frequently lately and thats also helped out. Its about time i get better.
5ft@9sec330:F2ft
The waves were maybe hip high at most. the tide was low so bigger waves were dumpy. the north end looked good but I was amazed by the amount of people. I also got there as the pig was unlocking the lot. who knew.
I've been going out and catching waves pretty frequently lately and thats also helped out. Its about time i get better.
5ft@9sec330:F2ft
2006/03/20
Surfing and Anarchism
Yesterday i drove the hooptie out to the jetty for some waves. very small waves. was only out for about 45 when i figured the waves were gonna keep getting smaller and its not worth being out in the cold for some ankle slappers. Decent enough fun but i was looking for some good rides and it just wasnt happening.
The evenings topic was called "developing a strategy to win". Regardless of what people think of Churchill the man is a genius and knows what he's talking about. To blindly follow the masses, to blindly let media and government dictate what we think and feel is to take part in our own misery. I was hoping for more talk on actual tactics and how and who can get the revolution going but the conversation never went in that direction.
There was talk of the green party as an alternative but i found their question and comments rather ignorant. They outright said... Anarchism is not a solution. Well, the green party is part of a corrupt system. they embrace the system. They play by the systems rules. I dont understand why people are afraid to Smash the System! We have everything to gain. Its the fear they have and the fear they need to face... then the state, more importantly, the police, the corporations that keep the country going in circles. These corporations have names, united defense, halliburton, General Electric. We need to put a "face" with the name of our oppressors. We can;t continue to be vague about who is fucking us. We need to state the obvious and call them out. Action must then be taken against them.
The regular Joe and Jane Sixpack need it all spelled out for them. Hey, they have lives and children to take care of so we cant just go and piss them off but if they know who and how is screwing us things can begin to happen.
Anyways, Churchill laid the smackdown set the folks straight. Anarchism is a viable alternative. It is not a form of government nor does it pretend to be. Nor is it chaos.
Well, its cold outside and the ocean is flat. Time to write something worth reading. LOL.
The evenings topic was called "developing a strategy to win". Regardless of what people think of Churchill the man is a genius and knows what he's talking about. To blindly follow the masses, to blindly let media and government dictate what we think and feel is to take part in our own misery. I was hoping for more talk on actual tactics and how and who can get the revolution going but the conversation never went in that direction.
There was talk of the green party as an alternative but i found their question and comments rather ignorant. They outright said... Anarchism is not a solution. Well, the green party is part of a corrupt system. they embrace the system. They play by the systems rules. I dont understand why people are afraid to Smash the System! We have everything to gain. Its the fear they have and the fear they need to face... then the state, more importantly, the police, the corporations that keep the country going in circles. These corporations have names, united defense, halliburton, General Electric. We need to put a "face" with the name of our oppressors. We can;t continue to be vague about who is fucking us. We need to state the obvious and call them out. Action must then be taken against them.
The regular Joe and Jane Sixpack need it all spelled out for them. Hey, they have lives and children to take care of so we cant just go and piss them off but if they know who and how is screwing us things can begin to happen.
Anyways, Churchill laid the smackdown set the folks straight. Anarchism is a viable alternative. It is not a form of government nor does it pretend to be. Nor is it chaos.
Well, its cold outside and the ocean is flat. Time to write something worth reading. LOL.
2006/02/11
2006/02/06
the view is amazing
wow, straight out was big basin and the pacific ocean. Waddell creek, ano nuevo, blue water as far as you could see. to the south was Monterey bay and monterey peninsula.
That was my view from this last weekends climbing trip to Castle rock/Goat rock. amazing views, I couldnt ask for more. ascended two relativley easy but long routes. And got back in touch with the fun of outdoor climbing.
That was my view from this last weekends climbing trip to Castle rock/Goat rock. amazing views, I couldnt ask for more. ascended two relativley easy but long routes. And got back in touch with the fun of outdoor climbing.
2006/01/30
decent enough
decent surf, 10ft@11secfrom 315deg. the tide was dropping i hit 38th for a quick session. Load of fun on the bitch. gotta love that big board. Super tired of repairing it tho. I noticed tons of surftechs out on the eastside, surprising actually. The waves were small for the big swell tho. no more than 2.5 ft. fun tho. definately will get out again soon. Scott creek was macking, no one out at waddell, 3 & 4 mile were packed.
2006/01/26
cloudy skies and blurry mornings
London was nice, no serious rain, but definately as cloudy as i thought it would be. I never really thought of visiting there before but the chance came up and i'm glad i went. The first night out was brutal. no sleep ended up at fabric around 11 or so. Ritchie Hawtin was good, but i really dug on chris coco's and rob da banks set. amazing stuff. not like genius songs but these guys really know how to get a crowd worked up. the drink of choice tho for better or for worse was smirnoff ice. the shitty thing was we left about 6am. the metro did not start back up for another hour and a half. We were in the way north east end of london and the hotel was in the faaaaaaaar north west of london. A cab ride of about 120 dollars.
The museums are fantastic. The british museum has a fantastic egypt collection as well as the rosetta stone. very impressive stuff. The national gallery had things from michealangelo, breaugal, da vinci,goya, boticelli. I was a bit impressed by canaletto. I'd seen plenty of his stuff before in other museums but for some reason these made an impression on me. I think i'm pretty lucky in museums, the only major museum i've yet to visit is the louvre.
Pictures below are drunken, except the ones by my Lady. London requires beer and/or cider. The more you consume the more you enjoy the city and i'd have to admit I really really enjoyed the city.
Up next on the travel list... Tokyo.
The museums are fantastic. The british museum has a fantastic egypt collection as well as the rosetta stone. very impressive stuff. The national gallery had things from michealangelo, breaugal, da vinci,goya, boticelli. I was a bit impressed by canaletto. I'd seen plenty of his stuff before in other museums but for some reason these made an impression on me. I think i'm pretty lucky in museums, the only major museum i've yet to visit is the louvre.
Pictures below are drunken, except the ones by my Lady. London requires beer and/or cider. The more you consume the more you enjoy the city and i'd have to admit I really really enjoyed the city.
Up next on the travel list... Tokyo.
richmond train
drunken picture
richmond theatre
bar
eye
bridge2006/01/01
the instant i fall
The following is some notes on a quick roadtrip/adventure to points south:
Salinas, i totally understand why Steinbeck fled.
pismo beach is depressing. lots of sand but no personality. what do people do there? how does one end up homeless on the central coast of california? how can there be so many crackers?
I was incredibly disappointed with this, my first encounter with pismo beach. Bruno and Luccabella also expressed their discontentment with this not so lovely seaside town by leaving small mounds of mushy shit on their boardwalk. how can a coastal "enclave" lack so much personality? there was nothing unique about this burg and i likened it to someone dropping a no name shit town like colton on the coast.
avila beach, same shit, more upper class, more lily white. i think i'd only visit if i had a house there and even then i'd rent it out to suckers.
The trip to santa barbara was worth the time. worth the drive. Arriving late wednesday night after multiple stops up the coast wondering if each place was worth getting to know. The miles finally stopped adding up there. impressive waves. nice, clean shape and not closing out. I had no idea that while i've been suffering with 12 ft close outs in HMB a mere 200 and some miles south was a spot with surf that did not snap boards like popsicle sticks.
We luckily found state st. and went for a stroll, letting the pups out for a stretch at the local hippie mobbed park.the place was insanely packed for a wednesday night. All the stores crawling with consumers, not crazed either, people gazing at clothes and useless crap they'll never set eyes on again once its makes it home. It was actually relaxing.
SB is rather stale and tasteless, much like the rest of the country, having no unique flavor, but the architecture and style left behind by the spanish imperialist endures. The large thick off white arches at the front of the buildings, the brown painted wood framed windows facing the ocean gives one a feeling that they are in a place unlike where they came from. Its that charm that captivates the tourist and keeps him there.
While driving late at night looking for chocolate flavored cigars we of course became lost. this was a reoccuring aspect of the trip. A turn off from the road would lead to another turn off which would lead to a dead end road in an unknown town. But this time we ended up in the Mexican part of town and I of course felt instantly at ease in a place where most would feel around to make sure their wallet was still in their back pocket. The street was dotted with Mexican restaurants, markets and businesses, one of which sold pinatas. In one of the many "neighborhood" liquor stores we were able to find the shining jewel of flavored cigars, Swisher Sweets Chocolate.
Oddly enough, this neighborhood was stuck between the cradle of commercialism that is State St. and neighborhood that looked like the La Jolla of Santa Barbara.
Leadbetter beach. nice point/reef break. easy waves, gentle take off, shitty surfer named KC. one month out of practice, fat from holiday gluttony and on a 6 foot one inch surfboard named "sweet prince".
I never once caught something that could be called a "ride" but i didnt care much. i was a bit disappointed in myself but no matter. It was a beautiful day and i was out. There were four other people out at that wave i was at. The only one worst than me was the kid learning to surf for the first time.
I remember El Cap differently. cold, cloudy, a small, gutless shorebreak. i was a part of a handfull of misfit boy scouts not interested practical jokes or much else really. one of the guys brought along a couple homemade skim boards made of plywood. We waxed up the boards with some shitty sexwax left over from waxing a curb up. that was as close as i ever got to surfing for the next 15 years.
My return was with my wife and 2 pups. i didnt even remember seeing a point when i was there as a kid and here it was 3 wave sets breaking cleanly from the tip of the point on down. I totally dont remember it how it really is. for some reason i remember a low cliff. Who knows. It is a beautiful spot however I prefer Manresa. You cant beat the nice wide beach, tall sand cliff and the eaucalytus grove begging for a match.
The point was littered with neoprene soldiers, I counted 23 which i suppose was not very much since there were reports of 80 fuckers just days before during the monster swell. sitting eating lunch at the edge of the park one could watch the surfers battle it out for every wave. Seana asked, "you dont want to go out?" i said "no" there was no way i could compete for waves out there. these guys drive by that spot everyday waiting for it break, they're rabid. I'd get run over like a bad traffic crash.
Salinas, i totally understand why Steinbeck fled.
pismo beach is depressing. lots of sand but no personality. what do people do there? how does one end up homeless on the central coast of california? how can there be so many crackers?
I was incredibly disappointed with this, my first encounter with pismo beach. Bruno and Luccabella also expressed their discontentment with this not so lovely seaside town by leaving small mounds of mushy shit on their boardwalk. how can a coastal "enclave" lack so much personality? there was nothing unique about this burg and i likened it to someone dropping a no name shit town like colton on the coast.
avila beach, same shit, more upper class, more lily white. i think i'd only visit if i had a house there and even then i'd rent it out to suckers.
The trip to santa barbara was worth the time. worth the drive. Arriving late wednesday night after multiple stops up the coast wondering if each place was worth getting to know. The miles finally stopped adding up there. impressive waves. nice, clean shape and not closing out. I had no idea that while i've been suffering with 12 ft close outs in HMB a mere 200 and some miles south was a spot with surf that did not snap boards like popsicle sticks.
We luckily found state st. and went for a stroll, letting the pups out for a stretch at the local hippie mobbed park.the place was insanely packed for a wednesday night. All the stores crawling with consumers, not crazed either, people gazing at clothes and useless crap they'll never set eyes on again once its makes it home. It was actually relaxing.
SB is rather stale and tasteless, much like the rest of the country, having no unique flavor, but the architecture and style left behind by the spanish imperialist endures. The large thick off white arches at the front of the buildings, the brown painted wood framed windows facing the ocean gives one a feeling that they are in a place unlike where they came from. Its that charm that captivates the tourist and keeps him there.
While driving late at night looking for chocolate flavored cigars we of course became lost. this was a reoccuring aspect of the trip. A turn off from the road would lead to another turn off which would lead to a dead end road in an unknown town. But this time we ended up in the Mexican part of town and I of course felt instantly at ease in a place where most would feel around to make sure their wallet was still in their back pocket. The street was dotted with Mexican restaurants, markets and businesses, one of which sold pinatas. In one of the many "neighborhood" liquor stores we were able to find the shining jewel of flavored cigars, Swisher Sweets Chocolate.
Oddly enough, this neighborhood was stuck between the cradle of commercialism that is State St. and neighborhood that looked like the La Jolla of Santa Barbara.
Leadbetter beach. nice point/reef break. easy waves, gentle take off, shitty surfer named KC. one month out of practice, fat from holiday gluttony and on a 6 foot one inch surfboard named "sweet prince".
I never once caught something that could be called a "ride" but i didnt care much. i was a bit disappointed in myself but no matter. It was a beautiful day and i was out. There were four other people out at that wave i was at. The only one worst than me was the kid learning to surf for the first time.
I remember El Cap differently. cold, cloudy, a small, gutless shorebreak. i was a part of a handfull of misfit boy scouts not interested practical jokes or much else really. one of the guys brought along a couple homemade skim boards made of plywood. We waxed up the boards with some shitty sexwax left over from waxing a curb up. that was as close as i ever got to surfing for the next 15 years.
My return was with my wife and 2 pups. i didnt even remember seeing a point when i was there as a kid and here it was 3 wave sets breaking cleanly from the tip of the point on down. I totally dont remember it how it really is. for some reason i remember a low cliff. Who knows. It is a beautiful spot however I prefer Manresa. You cant beat the nice wide beach, tall sand cliff and the eaucalytus grove begging for a match.
The point was littered with neoprene soldiers, I counted 23 which i suppose was not very much since there were reports of 80 fuckers just days before during the monster swell. sitting eating lunch at the edge of the park one could watch the surfers battle it out for every wave. Seana asked, "you dont want to go out?" i said "no" there was no way i could compete for waves out there. these guys drive by that spot everyday waiting for it break, they're rabid. I'd get run over like a bad traffic crash.
2005/11/08
the new and blue
Surfed a new spot. The drive over was pretty dismal. I wasnt excited to go to the jetty but i thought, "i gotta get wet, gotta relax and enjoy the surf" the recent shark attack was on my mind but it was in such deep water that i figured the area was chill.
Checked out d's first and it was decent. A few local folks around. then i checked out the jetty and it seemed every kook from LM was there. It was packed. boards flying everywhere. sheer madness and there was no way i was gonna get myself caught up in that bullshit.
Next i went to small creek mouth that was off the hook. semi clean breaking and really fun.
Checked out d's first and it was decent. A few local folks around. then i checked out the jetty and it seemed every kook from LM was there. It was packed. boards flying everywhere. sheer madness and there was no way i was gonna get myself caught up in that bullshit.
Next i went to small creek mouth that was off the hook. semi clean breaking and really fun.
2005/10/30
5.7@12&4.5nRising:310
I ended up at the hook about 630 this morning. some decent sets but there was already at least a dozen longboarders on the main peak and 3 guys at the peak further east. It was the first time i surfed that spot. I really liked it and i was wondering where sharks was from that spot. I rarely surf the eastside. So anyways i sat inside in between the two packs and i picked off the short rides that no one else got.
Its a wierd place, the surfers there were not particularly good but they all acted as if they should be on the wct. heavy attitudes. The waves were nice tho. I think i could get a lot better if i surfed those kinds of waves rather than the usual super fast close outs that SMC beaches dish up. I definately plan on going back most likely super early tho.
Its a wierd place, the surfers there were not particularly good but they all acted as if they should be on the wct. heavy attitudes. The waves were nice tho. I think i could get a lot better if i surfed those kinds of waves rather than the usual super fast close outs that SMC beaches dish up. I definately plan on going back most likely super early tho.
2005/10/21
0034 just right and super good
I had a great weekend of surf. 6.6 @ 14 seconds coming from somewhere nw. lm was excellent while most other places were closed out and ugly. The jetty which normally grooms unruly swells was small and disorganized. But the offshores has LM as perfect as i've ever seen it.
The jetty the day before was beautiful, providing excellent lefts and rights. some great speedy rights which were ruling.
I needed these days off. too much work and not enough of anything else ruins life. this happens too often. I'll have to keep up on this shit.
The jetty the day before was beautiful, providing excellent lefts and rights. some great speedy rights which were ruling.
I needed these days off. too much work and not enough of anything else ruins life. this happens too often. I'll have to keep up on this shit.
2005/07/31
0031: glad you werent here.
friday 3pm and i ran out. the work recently has kept up at a pace thats been difficult to keep up with. more responsibility means more people with the eye out over you. dont slip, they'll know. but the weather had been decent and the prospects good for a decent evening.
I was glad to ditch the pager.
the wait for M was unbearable. I wanted to get to LM before it got too late and the lady would change her mind. Even left before i'd heard the word from M just to make sure there'd be some rides in my near future. the brief stop for tea was in order then the trip to the beach was made. 40 minutes. a terribly long time and terribly boring drive.
Amazingly the small conditions made for excellent shape and a carvable face on a pretty decent wave. The experience and countless trips to the area breaks have allowed me to call the right spot for the right conditions. we had great 3 footers and the occasianal 4 foot that would simply kill. Just two of us paddled out in front of the taco bell and sat out far to the left of a crowd of salty fuckers. pretty much alone, we didnt have to wait long till the set came in and it was fantastic. the sets were spaced just right and we didnt have to hardly wait 5 minutes before a decent wave would roll in. beautiful carvable faces, the hog performed to perfection. going up the face and dropping some wait on the tail to whip its fat ass down the line. The drop ins were picture perfect, keeping the nose from digging and pulling the bottom turn for a decent trim. Wave after wave this happened. unreal. it was a real treat and a nice change from recent sessions of endless paddling and endless burns.
The next morning i headed to the reef break with high hopes of clean faces and magazine photo conditions. Instead it looked like LM on a shitty small day. A small crowd had already formed and it looked dumpy and closed out. Hardly worth jumping in for. I drove up and the spots all looked promising but for some reason or another i didnt feel comfortable going in. I ended up a decent hidden sand bar fishing for perch. casting off of 40 min allows a person to get pretty bored but i was really entertained staring at the waves rolling in. most about 4 ft and the occasional head high set wave was making me wish M had woken up so i'd be out on the water instead of futily tossing plastic worms out into the rips. The hike up to the car is a bitch. A vicious steep ravine bordering on canyon, alone it spooked me. I'd jump after hearing birds jump from bush to bush. I kept thinking i'd get bit by some fucking snake and hope poor bastard driving by would be nice enough to suck the poison out! but by the car there were some people who where getting ready to make the trip back down for a couple of rides.
fantastic. speedy waves pushing in with nice faces. my second wave was classic. a nice head high peeler that i made a picture perfect drop on and pulled a nice bottom turn on. I was heading down the line and i realized i gotta take advantage of my luck and go up the face for one carve. I pushed out on the tail and then dug in, raced up the face and pushed out one more time for a drop back in, one more bottom turn and i was good. just headed down the line smiling.
This went on for a while. when i surf shittier waves i try to get the most of them, push for as many carves as possible but this wave was different. the environment was something out of a nature mag. sitting out you see nothing but open ocean. Riding the wave is dreamlike. you drop in and turn and just kind of stare at the water in front. I almost lose myself in it all.
I was glad to ditch the pager.
the wait for M was unbearable. I wanted to get to LM before it got too late and the lady would change her mind. Even left before i'd heard the word from M just to make sure there'd be some rides in my near future. the brief stop for tea was in order then the trip to the beach was made. 40 minutes. a terribly long time and terribly boring drive.
Amazingly the small conditions made for excellent shape and a carvable face on a pretty decent wave. The experience and countless trips to the area breaks have allowed me to call the right spot for the right conditions. we had great 3 footers and the occasianal 4 foot that would simply kill. Just two of us paddled out in front of the taco bell and sat out far to the left of a crowd of salty fuckers. pretty much alone, we didnt have to wait long till the set came in and it was fantastic. the sets were spaced just right and we didnt have to hardly wait 5 minutes before a decent wave would roll in. beautiful carvable faces, the hog performed to perfection. going up the face and dropping some wait on the tail to whip its fat ass down the line. The drop ins were picture perfect, keeping the nose from digging and pulling the bottom turn for a decent trim. Wave after wave this happened. unreal. it was a real treat and a nice change from recent sessions of endless paddling and endless burns.
The next morning i headed to the reef break with high hopes of clean faces and magazine photo conditions. Instead it looked like LM on a shitty small day. A small crowd had already formed and it looked dumpy and closed out. Hardly worth jumping in for. I drove up and the spots all looked promising but for some reason or another i didnt feel comfortable going in. I ended up a decent hidden sand bar fishing for perch. casting off of 40 min allows a person to get pretty bored but i was really entertained staring at the waves rolling in. most about 4 ft and the occasional head high set wave was making me wish M had woken up so i'd be out on the water instead of futily tossing plastic worms out into the rips. The hike up to the car is a bitch. A vicious steep ravine bordering on canyon, alone it spooked me. I'd jump after hearing birds jump from bush to bush. I kept thinking i'd get bit by some fucking snake and hope poor bastard driving by would be nice enough to suck the poison out! but by the car there were some people who where getting ready to make the trip back down for a couple of rides.
fantastic. speedy waves pushing in with nice faces. my second wave was classic. a nice head high peeler that i made a picture perfect drop on and pulled a nice bottom turn on. I was heading down the line and i realized i gotta take advantage of my luck and go up the face for one carve. I pushed out on the tail and then dug in, raced up the face and pushed out one more time for a drop back in, one more bottom turn and i was good. just headed down the line smiling.
This went on for a while. when i surf shittier waves i try to get the most of them, push for as many carves as possible but this wave was different. the environment was something out of a nature mag. sitting out you see nothing but open ocean. Riding the wave is dreamlike. you drop in and turn and just kind of stare at the water in front. I almost lose myself in it all.
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